Date:         Thu, 11 Jun 2020 12:42:49 -0400
Reply-To:     Gabriel Hourtouat <ghourtouat@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Gabriel Hourtouat <ghourtouat@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Coolant Hoses, Complete Set -- Remove and Replace
In-Reply-To:  <CAA5WjgjiD8rSsDttsiW0LETUjAUP-eiaOMbanTz=m7tbhPduqA@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Here is something from Dorman, a supplier of spring style clamps, with
regards to their 1.75" clamp, model number 14086 when I asked him about 44,
45 and 47mm hoses.  (see link)
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/dorman-help-14086-spring-type-fuel-hose-clamps-1-75-in-0245696p.html?rrec=true#spc

gabby

Nicholas Paris <nparis@dormanproducts.com>
12:04 PM (34 minutes ago)
to me, Techline

A 1.75” clamp this style should work with a range of 1.74”-1.85” max OD



Nicholas Paris

Techline Specialist

Dorman Products

3400 E. Walnut Street

Colmar Pa 18915



On Thu, Jun 11, 2020 at 11:59 AM Gabriel Hourtouat <ghourtouat@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I saw quite a few screw style clamps as well as some spring clamps.  Are
> some of those screw clamps original?
>
> The GW stainless pipe kit came with screw clamps for the mid section.  Is
> it preferable to source spring clamps for these too?
>
> I see a variety of sizes.  Can a1.75" spring clamp be used for the 44mm,
> 45mm and 47mm connections?
>
> For reference:
> 47 mm (12 connections, including the 4 mentioned above)
> 45 mm (2 connections)
> 44 mm (2 connections)
> 40 mm (2 connections)
> 35 mm (2 connections)
> 32 mm (6 connections)
> 28 mm (1 connection)
> 24 mm (2 connections)
> 21 mm (2 connections)
> 18 mm (4 connections)
> 16 mm (1 connection)
> 15 mm (2 connections)
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 11, 2020 at 8:58 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> From Walmart the Final charge is only available in store, not online.
>> If the heater tees are plastic consider replacing them. They like to get
>> brittle and break at the worst times.
>> A right angle pick or awl will make getting the hoses loose easier. I
>> like to use a sealant on the hose ends like the aviation gasket cement.
>> Helps them slide on easier and eliminates that seepage, salt corrosion.
>> Especially on the plastic connections use the correct clamps. You need
>> thermal expansion.
>> Even the name brand thermostats vary significantly. Just has a Mahle
>> running at 211-213 according to the GoWesty EFI scan gauge. Replaced stat
>> same brand now at 197-200. This is on a GW 2.7L.
>> Yes the condenser blocks some air flow but there is more than enough
>> capacity even with the AC working. Do you ever plan to repair the AC? If
>> yes leave it in place. The longer you leave the AC inoperative the worse
>> the repairs needed can be. Consider the parallel flow condenser as an
>> upgrade. Better for cooling and AC performance.
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of
>> Gabriel Hourtouat
>> Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2020 3:31 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: Coolant Hoses, Complete Set -- Remove and Replace
>>
>> Dennis: thanks for your comments -- you can't imagine how helpful they
>> are.
>>
>> Progress report:
>> -Got the van safely and conveniently up a bit higher; built a crude
>> creeper and slid under the van for a long calm look.  So nice to be able to
>> poke around without an agenda.
>> -Sprayed WD40 and worked the joints as recommended; spent a good while
>> just looking and planning; I think I will start with the small heater
>> connection that TEE's off of the large pipe near the T-stat housing.  I
>> will try to drain a portion of the coolant straight into buckets before
>> opening the recommended front hoses at the pipes.  I plan to open the
>> radiator vent so that I can have a steady flow out of the hose.
>> -I could not find the recommended "Final Charge" coolant online at
>> Walmart but I will find a suitable alternative.
>>
>> Question:
>> I have a non-function A/C system, including the rad/condenser.   Does the
>> A/C rad decrease the amount of cooling air that gets to the engine
>> coolant rad?
>> -if so, is there a good reason I SHOULD NOT remove the non-functioning
>> A/C rad?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> g
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 12:38 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > See below:
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>> > Behalf Of Gabriel Hourtouat
>> > Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2020 6:59 PM
>> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> > Subject: Re: Coolant Hoses, Complete Set -- Remove and Replace
>> >
>> > Progress update, Coolant Pipe Replacement:
>> > -setting myself up for success with my workspace is a big task, two
>> > days work.
>> >
>> > -cleaning the pipes: they are filthy with manufacturing grease and
>> swarf.
>> > I have yet to see a set of coolant pipes with so much stuff inside
>> > that I would be concerned. Wad of paper towels and compressed air to
>> > push it through should take care of any big stuff. If you really need
>> > to clean oil or debris brake cleaner will do the trick.
>> > But how do you clean them?  A cloth on a rope?  Use the recovered
>> > coolant as the cleaning solution?  Or is there a soap or detergent
>> > which is safe to use?  How do I know the manufacturing gunk is
>> phosphate-free?
>> > Are really worried about the gunk being phosphate free or just kidding
>> > with us? Phosphate ir really only a problem if using hard nasty
>> > European tap water. Aisian cars want extra.
>> >
>> > For the ideal coolant consider the latest stuff used in Diesel trucks.
>> > "Final Charge" in the latest version is phosphate and nitrite free and
>> > can last so long that you will be out of the coolant change business.
>> > Walmart usually has this stuff on sale.
>> >
>> > -Radiator: it's not broken; but I'm tempted to change it anyways.  Bad
>> > idea?  How do I clean it or test it?  Just leave it?
>> > Besides conditional appearance the side tanks can crack internally and
>> > at some point they fail at the side tank to core connections. Take
>> > your
>> > chances1
>> >
>> > -Is there a big difference between the BEHR radiator and the other
>> > after market radiators?
>> > For the BEHR brand radiators there is the original version and now the
>> > "BEHR Service" version. The service version is made in China and it is
>> > a different core design. Round tubes with straight fins spaced close
>> > together. I have this version on Fun Bus. BAD DEAL INDEAD! It simply
>> > doesn’t have the cooling capacity. It will have to come out. Nothing
>> > like having the radiator fan run constantly even with the AC off.
>> > Using the AC on 90+ days the fan will go to high speed even at highway
>> > speeds. Of course this sucks cause besides the noise, when the
>> > radiator fan goes to high speed the AC compressor is cut off.
>> >
>> > I have installed some Spectra I think CU357. Had one leaker in he core
>> > but otherwise seem to fit and work as well as the BEHR.
>> >
>> > -Draining and capturing the coolant.  I have a big tray to catch any
>> > spills.  What's the best draining connection to open?
>> > Try as you may you will make a mess. If you really want to change it
>> > all you need to remove the plugs under the heads. Disconnecting the
>> > front hoses at the pipes lets you most of it out real fast.
>> >
>> > -Is high-spec Euro phosphate-free coolant worth the extra 20 bucks?
>> >
>> > See above about the Final Charge.
>> >
>> > Consider getting a cooling system pressure test set. You can fill the
>> > coolant in the back, pump up the system, open the bleeder on the
>> > radiator to let the air out. Close the bleeder, refill the tank in
>> > back, pressurize and bleed again. Do this 2-3 times and you can have
>> > the system bleed it enough to get it running before even starting the
>> engine.
>> >
>> > Anxious,
>> > gab
>> > 1986 WBX 2 wheel drive camper with power steering and decommissioned
>> > A/C
>> >
>> > ps -- after an oil and filter change, my oil pressure has bounced back
>> > up to 28 psi at 4000rpm.
>> > 28 psi at 4,000 rpm is still at wear limit or it is overheated. 10
>> > psi/1,000 rpm is normal.
>> >
>> > Dennis
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 4:42 PM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> > > Since you already have the pipes I would install them. Replace the
>> > > hoses of course both ends while the system is empty. Consider van
>> > > Café has a stainless steel coolant tower, downside is it still uses
>> > > the
>> > "130A" hose.
>> > > Consider replacing the t-stat housing with the aluminum version or
>> > > if you really want to go fancy the GoWesty billet housing and cover.
>> ($$$).
>> > >
>> > > Your oil pressure is scary low. 28 psi @4,000 rpm is wear limit. You
>> > > could be overheating the oil. Make sure it is not overfilled and
>> > > that oil cooler is actually passing coolant.  Maybe try replacing
>> > > pump. The GoWesty pump is a good choice. They measure, test the
>> > > shaft and throw away the junk. The o-ring cover gasket eliminates
>> > > that common leak. My
>> > > 91 @266K original bottom end with oil cooler and that pump holds ~28
>> > > psi at idle oil temp at 160F. At 190F ~20 psi. Fun Bus at 355K and
>> > > original pump still holds ~14 psi hot idle. Both have oil cooling
>> > systems.
>> > >
>> > > Dennis
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>>
>