Hey Steve Have done many, all on My back, Alone, & @ a couple of months shy of 76 it is still quite doable, not @All Fun, but doable ~ Support Eng with SawHorse or the like & Harbor Freight ChainHoist connected to Hole in BellHousing @ Center Seam ~ Once the bolts are out of Trany Mount the front of Eng & Trany get Lowered/Tilted several inches so Trany will clear the CrossMember that Its Mount bolts to ~ Tricky part of the whole process is mating the Trany back to the Eng > Alignment can sometimes be a Real PITA >> When it is Mated Close Enough to engage the Bolts it can feel as if it has encountered a BrickWall > Don't try to Force it with the Bolts > Make sure Trany is in Some Gear so by Turning the Drive Flanges a bit You cause the Input Shaft to Rotate a bit & it Should slip right in ~ I have long enough arms so I can reach over the Eng Bay & pull a Trany into place while it is supported on TrayJack,, That sometimes is a big help ~ Do Replace > Clutch Disc, ThrowOut Bearing, Pilot Bearing, Trany Front Seal & Eng Rear Main Seal ~ Depending on Age it also might be a Good Idea to replace the Pressure Plate & maybe have the FlyWheel Turned & Balanced, although New 1s aren't terribly expensive ~ If You Feel Comfortable doing it YourSelf You'll have Many More $s to spend on Good Parts That You Choose ~ While @It,, Do a Good Cleaning of the Trany GroundStrap & I also like to Add an additional GrnStrap from a convenient spot on the FireWall to 1 of the Starter Mount Bolts ~ Stay Safe & Healthy ~ ORR ~ DeanB
On 15 Dec , 2020, at 6:51 AM, Jack R wrote: > Hi Steve, > > I did my clutch myself, without a hoist, but had the help of a friend. It really wasn't too bad! While you have the transmission out, it is a good time to drain and replace the fluid. You may also wish to replace the clutch slave if you haven't done that yet. > I had the clutch flywheel turned, as it was glazed a bit. Also changed the rear main seal at this time. If I were to do it again, or if I did a lot of mountain driving, I'd likely change the flywheel too. A Clutch release bearing is pretty reasonable too, so you may what to change that as well. I did this job when I was in my late 40's, about 14 years ago, and it wasn't too bad for two strong guys to lift the transmission down ourselves. Note, since you will have to remove your axle shaft bolts, you may want to change your CV joints. Be sure to replace with new CV axle bolts whenever you remove the rear axle. Mind your torque specs on everything too! > > Hope this helps a bit. > > Jack R. > 84 Westy Wolfie, with 2.1l motor from a 91 syncro. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Steve Williams > Sent: Monday, December 14, 2020 8:45 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Difficulty / time to replace clutch - 1991 Westfalia 2WD > > Hi, > > My clutch is on it's last legs.� I can smell a very slight burning smell > after pulling some long mountain hills in 3rd gear. > > I've done most of the mechanic work on my van, CV's, full coolant system > upgrade (hoses, pipes, etc) and have done engine work on previous > vehicles I've owned. > > The only major work I haven't undertaken myself was a recent complete > exhaust system replacement with all the rusted studs / nuts & bolts :D. > > How difficult would it be to undertake replacing my clutch on my own?� > I've got lots of time, a heated garage but no lift.� I assume I'd be > doing a lot of the work laying on my back. > > Is this one of those jobs I should just pay a shop to do?� I've got a > very good mechanic to use where I live.� What would be a reasonable > number of hours for an experienced Vanagon mechanic to replace the > clutch?� How about an inexperienced DIY'er?� lol. > > Thanks, > Steve W. |
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