Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2021 08:41:15 -0700
Reply-To: Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
Subject: Re: rust treatment
In-Reply-To: <F5013924-3750-414A-A39F-878CC270817C@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I’m a big fan of FF. It’s lanolin
I spray it under van every year. But, I wouldn’t put it on seams in advance of any seam painting later
It will interfere with paint adhesion.
Alistair
> On Jun 26, 2021, at 8:34 AM, Eric Caron <ericcaron96@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> For rust treatment a recent body work person asked me to treat my seams with Fluid film in advance of touch up work this fall. It seems to be almost a animal product. Anyone have experience or thoughts about it?
>
> I am treating my seams and such now and then in advance of touch up work.
>
> Eric Caron
> 85 GL Auto
>
>
>
>> On Jun 26, 2021, at 11:10 AM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>>
>> Naval jelly was what I was trying to think of. I have had good luck with it
>> in the past.
>>
>> Thanks for the tips.
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Sat, Jun 26, 2021 at 6:49 AM Thomas Casal <thomas.casal@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> There are a ton of rust converters on the market these days, ospho being
>>> the most recommended on thesamba from what I’ve read. I’ve used a bunch and
>>> bought a bunch. I have about 6 different rust converters in my garage.
>>> Skunk rust, marhyde, ospho, corroseal, por15 etc….Some are water based now
>>> like corroseal I think marhyde too. Water based are solid because they are
>>> foamy after you shake them and so they stick to the area a bit better than
>>> the acid based products for vertical seams or under body where the acid
>>> will run Off easier. I’ve had good luck with both, corroseal you can buy at
>>> the homedepot. I’ve been using marhyde this summer just cuz I have it, it’s
>>> a solid product they all are if you follow the instructions. I would only
>>> treat rusty spots with either water or acid based converters and then I
>>> would apply an epoxy primer and master series chassis paint over the
>>> converter then I’d apply waxoyle chassis wax and cavity oil in the
>>> cavities. That’s my plan for my chassis anyway. Scraping that crappy under
>>> coating that just traps moisture is the worst part of the job. Got mine
>>> mostly scrapped off. It’s like they were trying to make these vehicles rust
>>> out from the factory. One guy joked it was “VW’s factory rust enhancement
>>> process”. My two cents on the Rust battle.
>>>
>>> One other route I forgot to mention is you can try the naval gelly that
>>> dissolves the rust too sold at the homedepot. that I haven’t used for the
>>> vanagon just rusty tools seems to work great. God speed.
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jun 26, 2021 at 3:01 AM John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> There is a product - phosphorus based I think - And available at home
>>>> Depot, that will convert rust into a chemical that protects from further
>>>> rusting. Can't remember what it is called. I used it many years ago on the
>>>> steel beam bumpers on a motorhome. It converted the rust, turning it black
>>>> and protected from further rusting. Painted it on, left it for a few
>>>> minutes, then washed it down with water. Finished as black, I never
>>>> bothered to paint it. I have some surface rust on my current van, and if I
>>>> can find this treatment, I plan to use it again. but my question is -
>>>> would
>>>> it be appropriate as an undercoat for repainting my van. I certainly
>>>> want to stop rust, BUT I wonder about the effects on paint.
>>>>
>>>> Has anyone else dealt with this stuff. It was very simple to use, but I
>>>> had my wonderments about its use before painting. Anyone? How did you deal
>>>> with surface rust before painting.
>>>>
>>>
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