Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 14:16:57 -0700
Reply-To: Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Power window issue
In-Reply-To: <E67EF8DA-7AD9-4A7D-9DA5-1033CB572020@uoregon.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
Possible resistance areas are the various connectors between the switches
and the mechanisms. Try pulling them apart and snapping back together to
see if there is any improvement. Do this with all connectors. More than
once. The wiring routed from the body to the door may be getting worn out
as well.
Steven
91 Westy
On Sun, Jul 11, 2021, 10:32 AM Douglas Toomey <drt@uoregon.edu> wrote:
>
> I have serviced both power window motors and wheelhouses. This included
> cleaning commutators, greasing bushings for motors. And opening up
> wheelhouses, cleaning and greasing. For one wheelhouse, I rewound the
> wires and found this easier if I did the following: Wound window to top.
> There are two barrel nuts, one facing upward when cover plate is off, one
> facing downward. Since window is up, most of the wire should be wound from
> the bottom of wheel. To do this, I removed the top barrel nut and then
> rolled the wire onto the wheel; this avoids any twists when flaking the
> wire on. This step seemed really important to making sure the wire lay
> nicely on the reel. Then inserted spring-loaded white plastic piece onto
> wheelhouse; this piece is the one that faces upward in door, or toward the
> wound up window bracket. Then using the worm gear, I kept winding until
> the spring was fully compressed. Once fully compressed, it will hold
> tight. Next step is to insert the top barrel nut and then get busy with
> muscle to compress the other spring and insert spring-loaded plastic piece
> that exits wheelhouse on side. Without removing the top barrel nut, I
> always ended up with a wuzzle of wire, what I would refer to as the kids
> winding up the garden hose!
>
> Now to the issue: Passenger side window goes up/down very nicely when
> jumping motor directly from battery. Success on rebuild!
> However, when using passenger's side switch, window raising is a bit
> slower. When using driver’s side switch to raise passenger side window,
> even more slow. I’ve measured 12.4 V from battery, 12.2V from passenger
> side switch for either activating passenger or driver side switch. So a
> bit of a drop, presumably due to solders. The consistent drop for either
> driver’s side or passenger’s side switch does not explain the different
> speeds. Does this suggests there must be some additional resistance in the
> circuit, i.e., that the return to ground is a problem? Would it make sense
> to ground the windows closer to the motor?
>
> Alternatively, it may mean time to remove the dash and get out the ohm
> meter. If I go that route, seems like there is some other maintenance to
> do, for example, lube fan for blower and possibly replace heater core.
>
> Any suggestions on power window solutions or preventative maintenance to
> do while dash is removed is welcome.
>
> Doug
>
>
> PS, Tom Neal said that my posts are unreadable as stored on listserv.
> Before sending this post, making sure that my mail client (Mail on a mac)
> sends only plain text. Let me know if this works! Thanks.
>
>
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