Date:         Mon, 12 Jul 2021 09:22:30 -0400
Reply-To:     Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Power window issue
In-Reply-To:  <CAGXJJtwfWe3hJqpx1RGjbo16ntSaHQT2jLFOGppxCVeF75O-9w@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Steve,
  I spent a few days last summer on the passenger side window of my '87
Wolfsburg.  Winding the cable on the drum is quite challenging.
If you study the diagrams in the Bentley carefully you see how the current
for the PS window has a very long path.  There are many places where
resistance can develop.  As I seem to recall there is a connector in the
space behind the glove box.  Try measuring the current (amps) used by the
two windows when powered straight from the battery; any difference may be a
clue.  The harder a motor works, the more current it will use.  If the
track or channels on the right side drag too much, the current draw will be
higher.  More current means a bigger voltage drop at any spot with
resistance.  I don't think it is possible to ground the motors at the
doors; both wires have places to go.
  Because of the frequent failures and difficulty in reassembly of the
original switches, I have started to replace them with switches from old
Subaru engine donor cars.  they are the same electrically once you figure
out the terminals.  Good luck.

Larry A.


On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 5:17 PM Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Possible resistance areas are the various connectors between the switches
> and the mechanisms.   Try pulling them apart and snapping back together to
> see if there is any improvement.  Do this with all connectors.  More than
> once.   The wiring routed from the body to the door may be getting worn out
> as well.
>
> Steven
>
> 91 Westy
>
> On Sun, Jul 11, 2021, 10:32 AM Douglas Toomey <drt@uoregon.edu> wrote:
>
> >
> > I have serviced both power window motors and wheelhouses.  This included
> > cleaning commutators, greasing bushings for motors.  And opening up
> > wheelhouses, cleaning and greasing.  For one wheelhouse, I rewound the
> > wires and found this easier if I did the following:  Wound window to top.
> > There are two barrel nuts, one facing upward when cover plate is off, one
> > facing downward.  Since window is up, most of the wire should be wound
> from
> > the bottom of wheel.  To do this, I removed the top barrel nut and then
> > rolled the wire onto the wheel; this avoids any twists when flaking the
> > wire on. This step seemed really important to making sure the wire lay
> > nicely on the reel.  Then inserted spring-loaded white plastic piece onto
> > wheelhouse; this piece is the one that faces upward in door, or toward
> the
> > wound up window bracket.  Then using the worm gear, I kept winding until
> > the spring was fully compressed.  Once fully compressed, it will hold
> > tight.  Next step is to insert the top barrel nut and then get busy with
> > muscle to compress the other spring and insert spring-loaded plastic
> piece
> > that exits wheelhouse on side.  Without removing the top barrel nut, I
> > always ended up with a wuzzle of wire, what I would refer to as the kids
> > winding up the garden hose!
> >
> > Now to the issue:  Passenger side window goes up/down very nicely when
> > jumping motor directly from battery. Success on rebuild!
> > However, when using passenger's side switch, window raising is a bit
> > slower.  When using driver’s side switch to raise passenger side window,
> > even more slow.  I’ve measured 12.4 V from battery, 12.2V from passenger
> > side switch for either activating passenger or driver side switch.  So a
> > bit of a drop, presumably due to solders.  The consistent drop for either
> > driver’s side or passenger’s side switch does not explain the different
> > speeds.  Does this suggests there must be some additional resistance in
> the
> > circuit, i.e., that the return to ground is a problem?  Would it make
> sense
> > to ground the windows closer to the motor?
> >
> > Alternatively, it may mean time to remove the dash and get out the ohm
> > meter.  If I go that route, seems like there is some other maintenance to
> > do, for example, lube fan for blower and possibly replace heater core.
> >
> > Any suggestions on power window solutions or preventative maintenance to
> > do while dash is removed is welcome.
> >
> > Doug
> >
> >
> > PS, Tom Neal said that my posts are unreadable as stored on listserv.
> > Before sending this post, making sure that my mail client (Mail on a mac)
> > sends only plain text.  Let me know if this works!  Thanks.
> >
> >
>