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Date:         Tue, 10 Aug 2021 21:59:55 -0600
Reply-To:     OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: Idle gremlins still at play
Comments: To: "VW~Dan" <dn92610@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CAFdLW6k4_9Pk1kX2YHh=nSEFwH3qh-OsDLtbTGheAbB_mryBLQ@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Dan

Get a wiser mechanic ~ Todays Synthetics are far superior to conventional oils

in many ways,, especially in their ability to do their job properly over a Much Wider

Heat Range than Conv’Oils & so therefore are 1 of the kindest things You can do for

Your Vans H2OBoxer ~

10w40, 5w40 or even 0w40 will work just fine, if Your H2OBoxer hasn’t already

been Abused, & @ somewhere in the $25 range for a 5 Quart Jug every 4K Mi’s,,

Way well worth the few $ diff' ~

> On 10 Aug , 2021, at 9:50 AM, Dan N <dn92610@GMAIL.COM> wrote: > > thanks Roy, > > I don't know that we can use 5W40 or 5W50 in a WBX.. are they synthetic or > standard oil? > My mechanic doesn't recommend synthetic at all... > > On Tue, Aug 10, 2021 at 8:42 AM Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote: > >> Dan: >> >> Out east here (Maritimes), I typically run Luqi Moly 5w40 in the WBX as >> well. When we make a long-haul summer trip - west (across the Prairies) or >> south (into the U.S.A.), I'll use the 50 weight. >> >> >> Dan N wrote on 2021.08.10 12:32: >> >> For the WBX engine the only thing I worry about is the thickness of the >> 20W50 oil... so go easy with the gas pedal at cold startup... I just blip >> the throttle to keep it running. The ML430 uses 5W40 synthetic oil. >> >> On Tue, Aug 10, 2021 at 8:02 AM Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote: >> >>> Dan: >>> >>> That's the manner in which most of our diesels operate. >>> >>> >>> Dan N wrote on 2021.08.10 11:59: >>> >>> The idea of giving a little gas when you start a cold WBX engine (without >>> dle controller) was from my observations on my ML430 SUV. When I start it >>> cold the idle speeds up to about 1500 rpm for a couple seconds then going >>> down gradually to 1200, 1000, 800 and and stops at 550 rpm all in a lapse >>> of about 30 to 45 seconds. I asked my mechanic about it and he said *"Mercedes >>> has not used an idle control valve since around 1990. The idle is >>> controlled by the throttle valve actuator and timing via a sensor... If you >>> start your cold engine and it idles right away at 550 it will stall and die >>> and something is wrong with the sensor.**"* >>> >>> dan >>> >>> On Tue, Aug 10, 2021 at 4:06 AM Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote: >>> >>>> Jeff: >>>> >>>> My son and I did a test week in Fundy (~400km in total) with the ICV >>>> disconnected. Occasionally, the WBX stalls at idle - mostly when cold, >>>> so as Dan said, put your foot in it a little for a minute and all is >>>> well. The only other time it stalls is when there is a load on the >>>> alternator (running lights on) or the helm is hard over (power steering >>>> pump loaded) at idle ... it does not compensate (I presume the ICU is at >>>> play ... or asleep ... here). >>>> >>>> Fuel consumption may be a little higher typical ... but there could be >>>> other bits a play there. >>>> >>>> Since driving with the ICV unplugged seems to be tampering the wild >>>> behaviour of the idle control unit, I am going to try waiting until I >>>> put the Hyena into hibernation to send the ICU off for rebuild. >>>> >>>> Roy >>>> >>>> Jeff Palmer wrote on 2021.07.27 17:57: >>>>> Hi Roy. I have had the same issue - surge then idle then surge - for a >>>> couple of years now. When I drive and not moving it idles nicely at 900. >>>> Maybe you can wait to send it out until you park it this winter? Assuming >>>> you don’t drive it right now. Maybe I’ll send mine with you - I’m in St >>>> Andrew’s NB for holiday. (No van). >>>>> Jeff >>>>> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>> >>>>>> On Jul 27, 2021, at 2:57 PM, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> >>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> Stuart: >>>>>> >>>>>> That's interesting. Though being dead-in-the-water for a couple of >>>>>> weeks or more (I am in Canada) is discouraging. >>>>>> >>>>>> Thank-you, >>>>>> >>>>>> Roy >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> stuartmacm@gmail.com wrote on 2021.07.27 14:40: >>>>>>> Idle control unit. Have it rebuilt: >>>> https://modulemaster.com/products/vw-volkswagen-vanagon-1986-1991-idle-controller-rebuild >>>> After 30+ years in a wet environment they all fail. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Stuart >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of >>>> Roy Nicholl >>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2021 10:25 AM >>>>>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >>>>>>> Subject: Idle gremlins still at play >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Good day all, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The Hyena (88 Westy WBX) started racing at idle (from 1100 >>>> climbing to >>>>>>> 2500 last summer). If you were at the back of the van and pushed >>>> the throttle hard closed - sometimes wiggling it - the van would fall back >>>> into an idle. With the engine shutdown, you had to do the same to hear >>>> the click of the TPS. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> This morning, I replaced the throttle body with a new GoWesty unit. >>>> Things were fine for the first test run. After lunch, I restarted the van >>>> and it began surging at idle, but differently than before. The WBX will >>>> surge to 2200 - 2500 RPM, but after 1-2 seconds falls back to idle. Rinse >>>> and repeat. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I unplugged the 12v from the idle control valve and the engine >>>> remained at idle. I removed the idle control valve; cleaned it with >>>> carb cleaner and tested it with 12v leads (valve appears to move). I >>>> re-installed the valve and the same thing happens. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> So, is it possible the spring is too weak and the valve is bad ... >>>> or is my problem likely to be elsewhere (i.e. idle control unit) and more >>>> expensive? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> What's the impact of running with the power to the idle control >>>> valve disconnected while I await a new one? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Roy >>>>>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>


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