Date: Mon, 16 May 2022 14:15:28 -0400
Reply-To: Eric Caron <ericcaron96@COMCAST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Eric Caron <ericcaron96@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: ECU Digital
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR05MB4916DF1A68388F9D0909AEB4A0CC9@BL0PR05MB4916.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
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Hi Dennis,
I’m collecting your last several emails on this topic and have them printed and hoping to follow the steps when I have a more skilled helper.
One question though,
What did you mean when you wrote mild cam?
And how does this impact things?
For the high idle, this is always a result of some combination of incorrect basic settings, excess or unmetered air getting into the intake. In addition having a 2.3L which also has a mild cam will rarely work perfectly on the 1.9 set up.
> On May 15, 2022, at 10:10 AM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM <mailto:d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>> wrote:
>
> If I recall this tool was mostly for the 86 and later Digifant. It probably can also work on the Digi jet. Either the ECU or the harness need to be modified to use.
> While you are looking for a simple easy to find and fix bullet to solve your woes, the Digi-Jet is still a fairly simple system and with very few exceptions most running problems end up being outside the fault of the FI system.
>
> For the high idle, this is always a result of some combination of incorrect basic settings, excess or unmetered air getting into the intake. In addition having a 2.3L which also has a mild cam will rarely work perfectly on the 1.9 set up.
>
> Start with checking that the throttle body is properly adjusted. It needs to fully close without the palte sticking in the bore. There is a stop screw and lock nut for this adjustment. This is extremely critical as your distributor has both vacuum advance and retard. The plate needs to close properly to close off the advance port in order for the retard to work properly. The distributor should also be tested that the vacuum operated and mechanical advance parts are working. If setting timing at idle confirmation is needed that the vacuum retard is in fact fully retarded. Warm, engine, disconnect O2 sensor and use the sensor and meter to fine tune AFM. Make sure warm up regulator is closing, uses a heater and engine case temp to close. Set timing 5 ATDC, mixture to ~.5 volt on O2 Sensor and base idle speed 850-950 rpm.
>
> For the off isle stumble make sure that the closed throttle switch opens immediately as throttle is opened. If not you go into injector cut off at ~1350 rpm. Then after that O2 sensor is ignored for a number crankshaft revolutions. Operation will be wacky.
>
> Since this engine has some miles on it it would be a good idea for a compression and leak down test. As this combination may also be susceptible to detonation it is also a good idea to put a camera inside the cylinders and look for piston damage. Carbon in the intake ports and back of the intake valves can also cause running problems.
>
> Dennis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com <mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>> On Behalf Of Eric Caron
> Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2022 8:18 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Subject: ECU Digital
>
> So, I’m still at the start of diagnosing a running issue with high idle and more importantly loss of power when step-in on the gas at a stop.
>
> But, A friend was just handed a interesting tool he wants to try out on the 84 running the 1.9 ignition
>
> What do you know about the ECU digitool has the name Darrel Boelher, in the paperwork.
>
> Has a long ribbon cord to take the device to the dash to watch w while driving and a LCD screen and lights.
>
> Anyone out there still using this tool and anyone know it’s history or usefulness?
>
> Eric Caron
> 84 with 1.9 ignition
> 85 with GW management
>
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