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Date:         Mon, 17 Apr 2023 13:48:20 -0400
Reply-To:     Geoffrey Toye <geoffreytoye@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Geoffrey Toye <geoffreytoye@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      1981 Vanagon Clutch Hydraulic Cylinder Replacement
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

I’ve just completed the replacement of the master and slave cylinders of my 1981 Vanagon clutch and thought I would share some notes I made for myself in case it helps others contemplating the same.

- Replace both cylinders at the same time. (My slave cylinder started to leak while bleeding the master). - Remove the steering column plastic to get access to the master mounting bolts. - Master can be changed by kneeling on the floor and reaching up. - Mounting bolts are 13mm, hydraulic nuts are 12mm, both cylinders. - Half way through I topped up the reservoir and put cling film under the cap before screwing it back on. This reduced the drip rate of the fluid while the hydraulic fittings were disconnected. - I thought the master cylinder replacement was tricky until I started on the slave. - The slave can be replaced by working through the wheel well with the wheel removed. No need to get under the van. - You need a 13mm stubby wrench for the rear slave cylinder bolt. - The rear slave bolt can easily be removed and replaced once the cylinder is removed. - Hold the stubby 13mm wrench on the rear slave bolt head using duct tape or similar. - Hold the rear slave bolt up in place using a cardboard wedge or similar under the head while inserting the new cylinder. - You can put the actuator rod on the clutch lever ball after the slave cylinder is mounted if the bleed screw is removed. This allows the slave to be mounted without fighting the return spring. - For both cylinders, loosely insert the mounting screws and the hydraulic fitting first, then tighten. This gives wiggle room to start all threads properly. - I sprayed penetrating oil on the fasteners the day before the work and they easily snapped free using regular wrenches. I put copper anti seize on the threads upon reassembly. - Gravity bleeding of the system worked just fine, stopping now and then to actuate the clutch pedal. - It took me a couple of days to complete, including web searches, coffee breaks, head scratching and neck stretching routines. If you went at it I bet it could be done in 4 hours, but that’s not me. I’m just a shade tree mechanic and take my time.

Comments and questions are welcome (in case I need to do it again).


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