Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2023 19:45:40 -0500
Reply-To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 1981 Vanagon Clutch Hydraulic Cylinder Replacement
In-Reply-To: <CAGaX3d4cbzUQVArwTCF-JcNkGiqNQSostqGz3H5oWd7mHx9GzQ@mail.gmail.com>
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This is how I have done it. Very good write up.
Jim
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 17, 2023, at 12:48 PM, Geoffrey Toye <geoffreytoye@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I’ve just completed the replacement of the master and slave cylinders of my
> 1981 Vanagon clutch and thought I would share some notes I made for myself
> in case it helps others contemplating the same.
>
> - Replace both cylinders at the same time. (My slave cylinder started to
> leak while bleeding the master).
> - Remove the steering column plastic to get access to the master mounting
> bolts.
> - Master can be changed by kneeling on the floor and reaching up.
> - Mounting bolts are 13mm, hydraulic nuts are 12mm, both cylinders.
> - Half way through I topped up the reservoir and put cling film under the
> cap before screwing it back on. This reduced the drip rate of the fluid
> while the hydraulic fittings were disconnected.
> - I thought the master cylinder replacement was tricky until I started on
> the slave.
> - The slave can be replaced by working through the wheel well with the
> wheel removed. No need to get under the van.
> - You need a 13mm stubby wrench for the rear slave cylinder bolt.
> - The rear slave bolt can easily be removed and replaced once the cylinder
> is removed.
> - Hold the stubby 13mm wrench on the rear slave bolt head using duct tape
> or similar.
> - Hold the rear slave bolt up in place using a cardboard wedge or similar
> under the head while inserting the new cylinder.
> - You can put the actuator rod on the clutch lever ball after the slave
> cylinder is mounted if the bleed screw is removed. This allows the slave
> to be mounted without fighting the return spring.
> - For both cylinders, loosely insert the mounting screws and the hydraulic
> fitting first, then tighten. This gives wiggle room to start all threads
> properly.
> - I sprayed penetrating oil on the fasteners the day before the work and
> they easily snapped free using regular wrenches. I put copper anti seize on
> the threads upon reassembly.
> - Gravity bleeding of the system worked just fine, stopping now and then to
> actuate the clutch pedal.
> - It took me a couple of days to complete, including web searches, coffee
> breaks, head scratching and neck stretching routines. If you went at it I
> bet it could be done in 4 hours, but that’s not me. I’m just a shade tree
> mechanic and take my time.
>
> Comments and questions are welcome (in case I need to do it again).
