Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2023 15:54:44 +0000
Reply-To: Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: Heater hose ball valve behind glove compartment?
In-Reply-To: <CAK9Aa+=UNy7mNA34q06uVF-Ed67z9FatcO7QesFVg_DSrN7kcw@mail.gmail.com>
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Very smart advice, Bruce. Cheapo valves fail quickly; a ball valve above glove compartment definitely do work in a solid manner. But it is so nice to just have things working as intended. And Dennis is right about having the push-pull cable kink....all that internal friction and so forth. Lubrication...yep...do it before it kinks up. And eventually it will. Hey...I really need to do this myself instead of preaching from a platform! My Vanagon is currently busted up from a Tesla T-Bone impact to passenger door area....so this preventative maintenance item is on my to-do list after those issues get resolved.
On Saturday, July 1, 2023 at 08:31:17 AM PDT, Bruce Todd <beeceetee@gmail.com> wrote:
Spend the extra cash and buy the deluxe front heater valve from GW - or
elsewhere if available. The regular after market ones can fail within
weeks…ask me how I know.
Bruce
On Saturday, July 1, 2023, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
> For the front heater valve there is really only 2 reasons they need to be
> replaced. They leak, or are frozen solid. Leakage is the common one.
> If the heat is not turning off most likely the cable is kinked where it is
> attached to the dash control lever. Pull the instrument cluster and you can
> service it right there.
> There is a design flaw here. The distance from the outer sheath(guide
> tube), (needed to support and guide the cable when pushed) is too great
> whick allows the cable to bend if any "effort" is needed to push the valve
> or overcome friction in the cable friction and kink is there.
>
> As a fix, I determine where the sheath can be placed with the lever all
> the way home, then cut the cable back leaving enough room to make that step
> on the end. It takes some care but the cbale can be bent to re-make that
> step to attach t the lever.
>
> Replacing that valve I find getting the cable attached to the valve is a
> real bear. I know just take it cable and all, re-install the then attached
> the cable to the lever.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of Mark
> Drillock
> Sent: Friday, June 30, 2023 6:27 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Heater hose ball valve behind glove compartment?
>
> Under the van are the 2 long heater hoses running right next to the 2 long
> main coolant pipes.
> Figure out which of the 2 hoses warms up first.
> Cut it in a accessible spot and add a valve with the lever facing where
> you can best reach it.
> An autoparts store should carry heater valves with the right hose diameter.
> Dennis says 5/8" and I think some later vans may be 3/4".
> This is the inside hose diameter.
>
> Clamp the hose pinched shut on either side of where you are going to cut
> it to reduce coolant loss.
> Or work quickly and expect coolant dripping down your arm.
>
> Mark
>
> On 6/30/2023 2:52 PM, Steve Williams (Contractor) wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> >
> > I have a fairly severe case of my front heater valve leaking hot water
> > by and constantly heating my wife and I up... at 30C it's kind of
> > sub-optional! lol.
> >
> > I want to do a "quick fix" and put a ball valve in the heater hose.
> > I've heard you can do that behind the glove box.
> >
> > What is the internal diameter of the heater hose?
> >
> > What kind of valve would I need? Something that would take hose clamps.
> > I live in a small town and the local hardware store didn't have
> > anything suitable. Either solder on (copper plumbing) or PEX crimp on.
> >
> > Any pointers are appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve Williams
>
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