Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (July 1994)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Wed, 06 Jul 94 20:13:40 CDT
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Joel Walker <JWALKER@ua1vm.ua.edu>
Subject:      Re: alternators

On Wed, 6 Jul 94 12:50:17 CDT Alistair Bell said: >My interest stems from the installation of a voltmeter in >my van, and noticing that my 90 amp alternator's voltage >output would drop to 12 volts if I had the heater blower, >wipers, lights and rear defrogger all on, and drop below >12 if I tried the cig. lighter. The combined current draw, I >think, is under 80 amps. Asking around, other vw drivers with >voltmeters seem to think this is normal, but...

hmmmm. oh, wise and wonderful Bosch, what sayest thou? <crossing his palm with silver ...> heater blower (fan motor): 50 watts (average power consumption) wipers (another motor): 5 watts lights: 90 watts rear defrogger (high resistance): 34 watts 179 watts (15 amps) cigarette lighter (high resist): 100 watts (8 amps!!! by itself!) and don't forget the 'normal' stuff: battery ignition 40 watts instrument panel lights 5 watts license plate, tail lights 30 watts side-marker lights 7 watts -------------------- grand total: 361 watts or 30 amps. so, yeah, i'd say that ought to drop the voltmeter down a bit. :)

i think i'd get me a Bic lighter. especially since i have two 7" fog lights and two 7" driving lights on the front, with a 5" red fog light on the rear bumper. now, i don't normally run all five of those (in addition to my normal headlights and side marker, license plate, and tail lights), but i have run along with two of them burning. they are wired with 'pop' circuit breakers (from a Cessna) at 10 amps each, and the data that came with them says they run about 5 amps each (7 amps to start up). Make Light the Night!!

>Maybe the reg is weak or the alternator is (although it was >tested before installation), or maybe I do have to spend >an afternoon soldering all the important connections, or >maybe I shouldn't try lighting i cig. whilst driving >in a cold rainy night.

i'd bet on just 'normal' voltage drop, being accumulated round the bus. as i understand it, if a wire is NOT large enough in diameter, the voltage will 'drop' between the battery and the consumer (light, fan, whatever).

example: in the headlight circuit, bosch says that 0.5 volts is 'permissible' from the switch to the light, and 0.9 v is 'permissible' in the entire circuit. now, vw is no different from other companies, and bigger, longer wires cost extra money, especially when you are building Millions of cars. if you can save $1.00 on each car by making the wire 18 gauge (instead of the larger 16 gauge), you just save the company a million bucks.

so what to do? well, as i understand it, the biggest offender is the ground wires. especially since part of the ground circuit is the chassis. so if you ran a large (12 guage wire) from the ground wire of each headlight back to the battery ground-chassis connection, you would DEcrease the voltage drop in the headlights (AND get brighter headlights!).

well, i 'never got around' to trying that, but i did do the starter on my 1980 bus (round about the solenoid failure time). i ran a pinkie-sized wire (about 1/2 inch diameter, including insulation) from the battery-chassis ground bolt under the car to the starter mounting bolt. propane-torch-soldered the connectors (OFF the car, thank you!). and it made (i think) a noticeable difference in the speed of cranking.

so why didn't i do it to the lights and everything else? well ... cause it was just such a damn pain to work with that big wire! a royal difficulty. but i keep thinking about it. maybe a 1/4 inch wire for the headlights and taillights and wipers and so forth. one of these days. do as i say do ... :)

and, besides ... everything on MY bus works pretty good. :)

BUT! a point for all older microbuses and buses and vanagons to consider (you eurovans are just too new to worry about this):

as the years roll by, you'll get extra resistance in the circuits, due to chassis rust/age/whatever and connector corrosion. so maybe such direct ground paths would be of benefit to, say, a 1980 vanagon or 77 bus. i got the idea from a HOT VWs article talking about 60's beetles. :)

hope it helps. joel


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.