Date:         Mon, 26 Sep 1994 16:53:26 -0700
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         <jeffs@almaden.ibm.com> (Jeff P. Schneiter)
Subject:      Price of a pancake; '72 engine removal


First topic...the price of a pancake. I mentioned last week that I
missed the purchase of a rebuilt 1700 for $500. I have since heard
from reliable friends that this price is absurdly low, that the heads
alone cost $800 and the gasket set >$100. Would this rebuild then just
be a replace of the gasket set, minor ignition tune-up, and a valve
grind? How much has a rebuild cost you for parts?

Looking for another engine - I want to have 2 engines for my as yet
unamed '72 Westy. If anyone knows of a pancake for sale, whether it is
rebuilt or not, please send the info my way (Bay Area first choice, CA
second). Is there one of the 3 that I should look for because it is
better in some way?

--Engine removal:

Spent several hours over the weekend learning about the removal of a
pancake engine. In reality it does not seem like a difficult
procedure, but as a newbie - what a pain in the arse...too many
electrical wires, too many hoses, too many screws for those cover
plates - for being an air cooled engine, they sure did like to cover
every square inch with those plates! Could someone please explain the
purpose of those to me.

Anyway, where I am now is close to pulling it out, but I have a couple
questions first:

Fuel pump: 3 hoses leave the pump - (1) goes to the engine, where it
splits in 2; (2) is about 5 inches long and hangs there; (3) is split,
where one part goes to the fuel tank and the other leads somewhere.

Questions:

Can I safely pull hose (3) off of the fuel pump and just put a bag and
clothes pin over, or does it have to be clamped tight, during which I
will be gravity fed fuel into my face?

Is hose (2) correct?

Starter: Where is the second bolt? I took off the bottom nut, but can
not find (by feel) the engine bolt that should be on the other
side. The nut was a 15mm, what size should the other one be - and it
is an engine support bolt, right?

Accel. Cable: It runs thru the front cover plate, but does not fit
thru the hole in an obvious way. How do I get this cable thru that
hole. Or does the front plate normally stay there when the engine is
removed?

I think that those are my only 3 sticking points...unless someone else
has a gotcha that I should watch for.

With regard to putting it back in, I am of the mind now to paint those
plates and label them to make it easier next time, maybe even paint
those darn screws - all 2 million of them. What paint can handle the
heat and abuse?

I labeled every wire I could, except for those that were hanging
loose, and hope that it all goes together in the end...would like to
replace many wires due to age and fraying - is there a recommended
harness kit to get, or just get similar gauge wire and cut my own?

Looks like enough for now...am in digest mode so I won't see any
responses for a day or so, unless you email me direct, and this engine
removal stuff probably doesn't interest enough people to keep it on
the list. (is there anyone with this experience in the Bay Area? Do
you consult for beer?:)

 jeff

ps. My roommate saw someone remove the engine, replace the main engine
seal, then replace said engine in under 4 hours - with a couple tools
he borrowed, no floor jack, by himself, on the side of the
road. Obviously not a '72 pancake! those cover plates alone take half
the time!
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Jeff Schneiter........jeffs@almaden.ibm.com........408.927.1498
If IBM and I have the same opinions, I have been here too long!
'72 Westfalia                                             MA/WC
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