Date:         Tue, 27 Sep 94 8:14:18 PDT
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         David Schwarze <schwarze@io.nosc.mil>
Subject:      Re: Price of a pancake; '72 engine removal

Jeff P. Schneiter writes:
> 
> First topic...the price of a pancake. I mentioned last week that I
> missed the purchase of a rebuilt 1700 for $500. I have since heard
> from reliable friends that this price is absurdly low, that the heads
> alone cost $800 and the gasket set >$100. Would this rebuild then just
> be a replace of the gasket set, minor ignition tune-up, and a valve
> grind? How much has a rebuild cost you for parts?

Uh, I think I spent somewhere between $1k and $1,200 for parts in '91
dollars.   The breakdown was something like this:

Head work		$300
Sodium Filled Valves	$100
Pistons and Liners	$250
Oil Pump (Melling)	$50
New oil cooler		$50
Gaskets and Bearings	$100
Rebuilt cam & lifters	??
Reground crankshaft	??

> Spent several hours over the weekend learning about the removal of a
> pancake engine. In reality it does not seem like a difficult
> procedure, but as a newbie - what a pain in the arse...too many
> electrical wires, too many hoses, too many screws for those cover
> plates - for being an air cooled engine, they sure did like to cover
> every square inch with those plates! Could someone please explain the
> purpose of those to me.

To keep hot air from underneath the car from getting into the engine
compartment and entering your cooling system.

> Can I safely pull hose (3) off of the fuel pump and just put a bag and
> clothes pin over, or does it have to be clamped tight, during which I
> will be gravity fed fuel into my face?

I remember getting fuel in the face.

> Is hose (2) correct?

Sounds just like mine.  I just assumed it was some sort of drain hose (?).
It's still hanging there.

> Starter: Where is the second bolt? I took off the bottom nut, but can
> not find (by feel) the engine bolt that should be on the other
> side. The nut was a 15mm, what size should the other one be - and it
> is an engine support bolt, right?

Ummm... damned if I remember.  I can look if you still haven't found it.

> Accel. Cable: It runs thru the front cover plate, but does not fit
> thru the hole in an obvious way. How do I get this cable thru that
> hole. Or does the front plate normally stay there when the engine is
> removed?

It should go through just fine.  I think you just pull it out from the
outside.  You will need to remove the front piece of tin.  All of the
tin, in fact, if you want to make your life easier...

> I think that those are my only 3 sticking points...unless someone else
> has a gotcha that I should watch for.

There are a few gotchas.  I would strongly recommend that you buy the HP
book "How to rebuild your air-cooled VW".  It has a whole section
specifically on the type II with the type IV motor.

> With regard to putting it back in, I am of the mind now to paint those
> plates and label them to make it easier next time, maybe even paint
> those darn screws - all 2 million of them. What paint can handle the
> heat and abuse?

You shouldn't need to label them, but painting is a good idea.  I hauled
all of the tin and the fan housing down to the machine shop and had it
hot-tanked for about $20.  Paintint should be a breeze after that.  Dunno
why I didn't do it.  :(

-David

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David Schwarze			'73 VW Safare Custom Camper (Da Boat)
SAIC Comsystems, San Diego	'73 Capri GT 2800 (Da Beast)
schwarze@nosc.mil		'87 Mustang Lx 5.0 (Da Bruiser?  Soon...)
=============================================================================