Date: 28 Sep 1994 09:36:50 +1000
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: "King, Robert" <king@tanelorn.aod.dsto.gov.au>
Subject: RE: Price of a pancake; '72 engine removal
Jeff,
I am quite familiar with type 4 engines - but I can't remember the subtle
differences between the '72 and the later 73-79 models (which I am more
familiar with at the moment), in terms of tin and mounting points however,
what follows may be of some help...
>First topic...the price of a pancake.
To totally rebuild (Australian prices but a guide?)
Machine crank and supply bearings $150
Supply cam (most are stuffed and the REAL problem in terms of parts cost on
older type IV motors in Aus) and bearings $300-$400**** OUCH
Barrel and piston/ring kit $400 (Brazilian are cheaper and nastier?)
Gasket set $100
Reco heads and new valves $200 ea
and maybe petrol pump kit ($50) and clutch ($200 for german)
TOTAL Somewhere between $1200 and $1500
>--Engine removal:
>Questions:
Firstly, it may be a better policy to leave all the tin on and pull the motor
'complete'. This is certainly the case with post 72 bodies (which don't have
the little section that comes out at the back). I also personally think that
with type IV motors it's easier to pull the motor and gearbox complete rather
than split them
>Can I safely pull hose (3) off of the fuel pump and just put a bag ....
Hose 2 is correct and yes fuel will gravity feed into your face (and burn your
arms) until you successfully block the line. As a point of interest the 'short
line' dumps petrol overboard if the fuel pump diaphragm ruptures, rather having
it end up in the sump - a nice design touch I think!
>Starter: Where is the second bolt? I took off the bottom nut, but can....
There is no bolt head proper on the starter side. It's head is circular with
one flat side. The idea is the flat side stops the bolt turning and you
tighten and untighten it from the other side (i.e., the engine bay side). It
is not an engine/gearbox mounting bolt. There are two bolts on top of the
bellhousing (i.e., 'higher' than the starter bolt) - undo them from the gearbox
side (support with jack first).
>Accel. Cable: It runs thru the front cover plate, but does not fit....
It should fit through the hole. Have you left the lug on the end? If so, look
for a *small* allen headed bolt on the lug and undo it and take the lug
off...Presto!
>With regard to putting it back in, I am of the mind now to paint those
>plates and label them to make it easier next time, maybe even paint
>those darn screws - all 2 million of them. What paint can handle the
>heat and abuse?
Any heat resistant paint (the tin doesn't get THAT hot) but make sure it is oil
and petrol resistant after setting or your new paint job can be ruined!
>I labeled every wire I could, except for those that were hanging....
Cut your own - the loom is 'one piece' from the fuse box back. There is no
plug connector to allow easy replacement of the rear section of the loom.
>Looks like enough for now...am in digest mode so I won't see any...
Will certainly drop by if I'm ever in the Bay area. Long way though 8-)
> jeff
>ps. My roommate saw someone remove the engine, replace the main engine...
Pull a motor out and strip it and put it back in a couple of times and then you
know how it goes..Its just practice.....
And I think the secret to enjoying working on a VW is when you get to do
it for relaxation/interest/enjoyment rather than out of necessity. If you get
pissed take a break or terrible things can happen.....
good luck
Rob K.
