short block: the crankcase, crankshaft, con. rods, camshaft and all block seals. hopefully an oil pump long block: ditto plus piston/cyls/heads/valve covers, full new seals/gaskets NO auxilliary stuff complete engine: ditto above plus auxilliary stuff like fuel system, electrics, tin ware, exhaust system, flywheel, clutch, engine mounts
short block requires many $$ of new components to complete into a long block, and some modest mechanical skills/tools. It's not likely you needed a new short block without needing the rest of the engine freshening up also. long block requires you bolt all the old rusty exterior bits of your current engine onto it to get an 'engine', minimal skill/tool level requirements complete engine requires you bolt on a suitable bus before you can motor around in comfort.
Having done long block, short block and complete rebuilds on bus engines the way to go is definately a long block, barring $$$ limitations. Warranty on a long block should be better, since 'they' know what the engine will be doing roughly, while a short block allows you to go to non-stock barrels/heads etc. Beware the combo of old short block and new p+c and reworked heads. You get good restoration of power etc., but the new loads may be too much for unrestored crankcase bearings and they may start to thump during your new found hard acceleration. Check the short block first before rebuilding onto it!
tim s.
ps.. a '91 and you need a new motor??? my '85 has over 100K miles, and performance is still A1 on hills/highway, just passes water like an incontinent wino.
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