Date: Sun, 8 Jan 95 7:52:40 EST
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: dcarment@ccs.carleton.ca (David Carment)
Subject: Re: Synthetics
>
> Incidentally, during the first post-jurassic 3 or 4 oil changes, I found
> waxy residue in that whatchamacallit oil sump plate/screen you're supposed
> to clean at every other oil change or so. Made me feel good about all that
> dirt being purged.
Was this waxy stuff the look of grey gook sludge? This could be a sign of
water in the oil. Nothing to worry about though unless it gets real bad.>
> I heard, maybe on this list, that the new oil leaks are often only
> temporary. At first, after the deposits of those lesser oils have been
> dissolved and evacuated, leaks start, but then, the synthetics actually
> soak those dried-out seals which then expand and resume their job of
> sealing. Hence the seals -- not the crud -- keep your engine from seeping.
>
> Sami
>
> --
> Sami Dakhlia
> Dept. of Economics
> Washington-University-in-St.Louis In theory, communism works. In THEORY.
> dakhlia@wuecona.wustl.edu -Homer Simpson
>
The little evidence I have would support Sami's point. Initially, when I
switched to synthetic both the valve cover seals and the piston relief
valve plate (which I replaced to substitute the proper annular groove
piston) leaked like a newborn. Now even at 80psi startups, neither areas leak
and seepage
after running hot has been reduced substantially. I run a combination of
10w30 (3 litres) and 20w50 (1 litre) synthetic in the winter.
BTW I had stated earlier that synthetics have a greater tendency to
return the heat to the engine rather than retain it as does dino oil.
Someone on rec.autos.vw, mentioned this is no longer the case with more
recent editions of Mobil 1. --
DC
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David Carment
School of International Affairs
Carleton University
Ottawa, Ontario
K1S 5B6
voice - (613) 788-2600-6662
fax - (613) 788-2889
Email address: dcarment@ccs.carleton.ca
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