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Date:         Mon, 6 Feb 1995 23:52:51 -0800
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         rickgo@halcyon.halcyon.com (Rick Gordon)
Subject:      Westy auxiliary battery setup

> >I have an '81 westy and was thinking about a auxillary battery for >camping. I have a auxillary heater, so this would come in handy as well >as using the radio and lights etc. Is there anyone who has done this >procedure who has an opinion? I went to JC Whitney and there set-ups do >not accommodate a stock Bosch alternator. ---Steevo---

I've got a '80 ASI conversion, which had mods for an aux battery. These mods consisted of one of those isolators you can get at many places, a cable disappearing into the body only to reappear under the drivers seat, and appropriate ground and feed to the power-pack.

These mods were ripped out around 1988 by some mechanic who left notes saying that they were causing a slow drain on the alternator, and that he had replaced them with an X-switch just as in the later model Westies. (You can find a circuit diagram of this in the Bentley book. The X switch is just a current activated electromagnetic switch. You can find these at auto parts stores - if nothing else look under parts for VW Rabbits.)

When I bought the van there was a dead battery under the seat and no X-switch to be found. I actually located the guy who did the original work and while he didn't remember that van he told me where he would have put it. it wasn't there or anywhere.

So I bought an X-switch, taped (temporarily) it into the engine compartment, ran the wire from the alt that feeds the dash alt light to it (to activate it), and it's all functioning correctly: when the alt is running, the current feed to the switch connects the two batteries. When the current is off, they're isolated.

There are two problems however: 1) voltage across the aux battery is insufficient to charge it. I think they recommend 13-14 Volts, and I'm not getting that. Voltage across the primary battery is fine. Possible causes: cable length between alternator and aux battery, voltage drop across the X-switch, insufficient alt output. Or simply could be a combination of the first two compounding the last one. Anyone know what the voltage output of a std alternator is offhand? Bentley mentioned a couple of choices and I'm not sure which I have yet. Cable from engine compartment to driver's seat is long, but it looks like a 10 AWG cable. (I haven't been out to work on this in a couple of months so I may be wrong there - close though.) Maybe a different voltage regulator? But is there danger to the FI control box from such a change?

2) the battery isn't deep-cycle, meaning, I'm told, it's only got about 30 full deep discharge cycles to it. It was the only battery I could find that would fit under the seat, and I'm new to this camper business. Solution here, unless I can find a deep cycle that will fit under the seat, is to get a real deep-cycle and put it in the storage compartment under the middle seat. But this means a lot of rewiring (including ones that aren't visible from underneath) connecting the charging system to the battery as well as connecting the batteries. If anyone knows of std VW height deep cycle batteries DO let me know!

Oh yeah, since I did this, I noticed that the EGR and ALT lights come on until I rev the motor sometimes. Maybe they did before and I just didn't notice it. Others have said they have similar behaviour. also the lights seem to glow just barely when the engine is revved. only visible at night. and they stop at idle!

So right now I only use the aux battery sparingly, say keeping the fridge going for a few hours while driving, and maybe some interior lights when needed. Then I charge it up on the charger at home. I've got a battery gauge on the power converter, so I can tell when it's about half-charged.

I suppose at this point I should just draw the whole system out, figure out drops across various components, and see what's wrong. I just haven't had a lot of time to mess with it lately. There's always a paid mechanic I suppose, but this is an electrical problem and I *should* be able to figure it out. (when I went to school computer science meant a couple of EE courses too!)

let me know what you figure out, maybe it'll help me!

-rick

Rick Gordon Bainbridge Island, WA ---------------------- Public Key Fingerprint: 05 BA 16 DF CA D4 E2 25 F0 C7 44 D0 47 40 10 2A -----------------------------------------------


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