Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (February 1995)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Wed, 8 Feb 1995 15:15:24 -0400
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         smitht@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Tim Smith)
Subject:      Re: 12volt electric heaters

>So, what is really needed is a way to insulate the van properly (as was >discussed this summer) and improving on the existing system to increase >air flow. Ideally VW should have had a third tube running up to the rear >seat and a way of recirculating all the hot air inside, plus a lot of top >quality insulation in the doors, roof and panels. > >

I've just had first hand experience on the benefits of insulation. My panel is fully insulated, 2" to 3" everywhere except front doors and front wall. The panel is very warm with both fans operating on '1', even at -20C. My Syncro, with full glass around and factory insul. still requires a jacket on when driving at these temps.

How to insulate?, strip the interior, everything goes out on the lawn/garage. Check for rust, apply paint/protective sprays etc. Then fit fiberglass pink insulation cut carefully to fit. Peel the stuff down to get the right thickness. You want 'loft' or trapped airspace, _not_ densely packed insulation. It shouldn't bulge out much as this is difficult to push in. Seal the insulation over with polyethylene sheet, held with 2" wide tape, duct or otherwise. This is the key to keeping from rusting yourself out from the inside. Not allowing the warm moist air to migrate to the body tin prevents condensation and keeps that heat trapped inside. Put your panels back on and refit everything else. Doing the roof requires ripping out the head liner, pop-riveting in U channels along the edge of the ceiling, and making panelling pieces fit. Use refrigerator cardboard for templates. The roof is hardest to do, but pays the biggest benefits. My panel was already bare tin so it was a bit easier. There is no way to insulate a Westy roof well, beyond about 4" nearest the rain gutters and glueing styro to the roof. Make a styro panel to fit the roof cutout as a compromise. Don't use high density fiberglass noise deadening insulation, it's too heavy, my roof panels popped in with this stuff. The vanagon hatch shocks may not be up to the increased weight BTW. Mine died shortly after, coincidence...? Email me for more, since this topic must bore hell out of the warm climate people. tim s.


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.