Date: Mon, 13 Feb 1995 10:11:01 -0600 (CST)
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: jbrill@unlinfo.unl.edu (James Brill)
Subject: The Tool List
Ok, here it is. It has been through as many editions. I don't think
a single person's suggestion went unnoticed, unless it was already
here. I will say this again: there are flaws in here. For instance,
we should figure out the thing about torx vs star heads. Whoever is
in charge of such things can certainly include this in a FAQ. I
wouldn't mind my name staying with it as I welcome suggestions and
additions. It was asked if I was interested in including prices. I
will leave that to someone else. I don't think I want to know. I can
tell you that I spent >$300 this weekend and didn't make a dent. I
got home and realized I had spent just shy of $50 on screwdrivers.
Talk about a guy with a loose screw. Oh well, enjoy. Jim
---cut here---
This would be a list of tools that you should have to work on your VW.
It is a compilation of suggestions I received from people. There are
tools on the list you might never need but others have found useful.
There are always corrections and additions to be made to the list. I
have not addressed the issue of years vs model or air vs water. I
will leave that much more complicated list to someone else. Ideally,
there could be a list for each year and model. Please forward all
suggestions and corrections to me and I will update and repost from
time to time. If you ever want another list just let me know and I
will mail you one. It should be noted that I don't want to start
big debates about what kind of torque wrench is best, etc. If the one
listed is adequate for most, and cheaper and more easily available,
then we should leave it at that. Same goes for the rest.
Suggestions, etc to: Jim Brill jbrill@unlinfo.unl.edu
FIRST OFF, GET SOME EYE PROTECTION. AFTER YOU ARE IN THE EMERGENCY
ROOM IS THE WRONG TIME TO BE WISHING YOU HAD BEEN WEARING SOME.
Secondly, buy a FIRE EXTINGUISHER. Put it under or behind your front
seat. Make sure your frequent passengers and mechanical assistants
know where it is and how to work it. These are $10-$15 at K-Mart in
the U.S. Four things will kill your love - wrecks, neglect, rust and
fire.
GENERAL COMMENTS
When buying tools from Sears be sure to get the Craftsman brand and
not the Sears brand. The former is superior in quality and carries the
infamous lifetime guarantee.
Snap On and Mac tools, available in the U.S., will have a nicer finish
and might be more heavy duty but will probably not be worth the price
difference for just about anyone short of a professional. Also, when
you break a tool at three o'clock on Sunday afternoon you know where
the Sears will be parked. As far as I know those other brands are only
available from the person driving a truck around selling to shops.
Check the sales at Sears around Father's Day and other holidays aimed
at buying things for your average manly man. Also, go there and get
their Power & Hand Tools catalog. It has some sets and other tools
not available in the stores.
You should look for one of the prepackaged semi-huge all metric sets
of sockets, etc. They have all three sizes of ratchets and sockets,
deep and shallow drives. There will also be various extension and
adaptor lengths. If you wait for the right sale you might even get
10% off or a free toolbox or set of pliers. Notice that some gaps do
exist in the sizing. For instance, you can skip a lot of 1/2" drive
sockets. A good deal would be to get a set that goes up to 21 or 23mm
and then buy those larger ones by themselves. A full set from 10-36mm
might look nice but many of the larger ones will rust waiting to be
used on your VW. Same caution should be applied to the purchase of
box-end/open-end wrenches.
Some of the suggestions here are obviously overdone. I am striving to
get a complete set of tools listed. Most people could to a tuneup and
many other repairs with about 10% of the items on this list. The
suggestions made are usually done with the goal of having the right
tool for the job (which also has a safety factor) and long term cost
savings.
Finally, tools are in that rare breed of retail item that almost
always gives value for money. Stick with a good brand and buy what
you can afford. A $100 tool will probably more than twice out live
its $50 cousin. This could prove particularly useful in the middle of
nowhere on a cold rainy night, 20 years later...
RATCHETS
1/2" 3/8" 1/4" drives
Torque wrench -- 1/2" drive, ratcheting type seems preferable to
the dial type. Craftsman 1/2" bi-directional goes 20-150 pounds, part
# (9)44543, and comes recommended.
Breaker bars -- a 3/4" size for brake, bearing and other heavy
duty work is recommended to almost end breaking fears. On the other
hand, most have gotten by with 1/2" and 3/8" drives, which do have
that lifetime guarantee at Sears. Seems to be that if you only want
to own two of these get the 3/4" and 3/8".
SOCKETS
3/4" -- 36mm for gland nuts and brake drums. Again, some have
gotten by with 1/2" for this. Buy as needed for 21-36mm.
1/2" -- 10,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,30,36mm full hexagon if you
can get 'em. i.e. six point as opposed to twelve.
3/8" -- 10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19mm
-- 10,11,12,13,14,15,17,19mm deep drive
1/4" -- 4,5,6,7,8,9,10mm
hex-head -- should be available in a set for about $20, or you
might just need one for your CV joints and could buy just the size for
your vehicle.
torx-head -- if this is a 12 sided thing then a 6mm on has been
suggested for cv work. [Can someone else verify?]
star-head -- appropriate size if you have replaced your CV bolts
with Porsche bolts, highly recommended by some.
extensions 1/2" -- 3",6",9",12"+
3/8" -- 3",6"
adaptors -- 1/2" to 3/8" and/or 3/4" to 1/2"
universal joint adaptor, get a 3/8" if you are only buying one
1/2" T-bar, probably not needed if the have the same size ratchet
SCREWDRIVERS
Rechargeable electric w/interchangeable bits for tight spots and
general ease on the wrist.
Ridiculously large flat blade screwdriver with a lifetime
guarantee. (TM)
At least one with interchangeable bits and allen heads. A good
rechargeable one might have all these bits.
Stubby type sizes and everything up to the large one above.
Impact screwdriver
WRENCHES
Open-end/Box-end 6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,15,17,19,21
"C" shaped brake wrenches in 8,10,12mm and whatever size needed
to bleed your brakes.
PLIERS
Needle nose, circlip, wire crimping, channel lock, regular, side
cutters, sheet metal sheers, if you can find 'em cheap medical
hemostats are nice for clipping off vacuum hoses and fuel lines.
VISE GRIPS
Needle nose, small, large. Good advice here it to get the Vise
Grip brand. Made in De Witt, Nebraska.
PULLERS/CLAMPS
Wheel bearing seal puller, "G" type clamps (I assume this is a
lot like a "C" clamp), two armed gear puller 3" and 6" bar, harmonic
balancer puller (not needed on air-cooleds), brake drum puller (for
serious mechanics)
ALLEN/HEX HEAD WRENCHES
2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,17mm Ball type drive ones are nice,
too, if you can find them. The big mutha is for the transaxle fluid.
The others should be available as a set in a little bag.
CRESCENT WRENCHES
6,12,18"
CHISELS/PUNCHES
Center punch, flat-end punch for door hinge pins.
Chisels have been seen sold in sets with a 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2"
blade. If you only have the bread for one, get the big one.
HAMMERS
Both small and large in hard and rubber, ball peen, too. 2 pound
sledge.
DRILL
3/8" variable speed with reverse. Heavy-duty type if you can
spring for it. Cordless ones are nice if you aren't fond of
extension cords.
Metal cutting bits.
Easy outs, for removing bolts with broken heads.
MISC
Little mechanics mirror on extendable handle for looking into
places smaller than your head.
Fluorescent trouble light, no burns, more shockproof.
Pickle fork for front-end work.
One magnetic-type and one claw-type grabber for picking up things
through holes smaller than your hand.
Reamer, for making small holes larger.
Timing light
Tach-dwell-volt meter
Multi-tester
Grease gun with flexible hose.
Compression guage, get the type with the screw-in head and
pressure release button, so you can do it yourself.
5' fence post makes a nice cheater bar
You can never have too many 10 or 13mm wrenches or sockets
Feeler guage, consensus has it that you should spend a little
extra on the nice one. Think about what a 0.001" distance is and how
much you like your valves. The step type is easier to use.
Spark plug gapper
Plasti-guage
Micrometer
Steel ruler
Broom handle, maybe two if you are working on the front end like
Muir.
Pocket knife, razor blade type cutter.
Hacksaw
Hand cleaner, gloves, ear plugs, latex gloves
WD-40
Liquid wrench
Propane torch
Oxyacetylene torch, for when the above doesn't work
Clutch alignment tool, a.k.a.: wooden dowel
Ring compressor
Spring compressor, to assist when installing new brake shoes.
Valve spring compressor
Battery charger
Old tooth brushes
Wire brush
3-ton floor jack, spend the money and get the good one with the
twist-control handle. Experience has it that a $150 jack will more
than pay for itself in fewer trips to the store to replace the $40
ones.
6-ton jack stands
Tape: electrical, duct
Wire: electrical, bailing
Test light
Brake adjusting tool, better than a screwdriver for this purpose.
Also good for all around prying.
Tap and die set, metric
File, sandpaper
Funnel
Axe and/or hatchet
Lug wrench
SPARE PARTS
I will not go into this. My own philosophy on this one has
been to buy two if I can afford it, so I have one for the next time.
At a minimum I should guess clutch, throttle cable and some fuel hose.
Muir would be a good place to fill this in some. It has been
discussed before. Basically don't throw away a working electrical
part when you are replacing them, coil, spark plugs, points. A spare
oil filter, drain plug......I could triple this file, but I won't.
--
James A. Brill Jr. \\ //
jbrill@unlinfo.unl.edu \\ \\// // If you're not outraged
University of Nebraska \\//\\// you're not paying attention.
free-lance homo sapien \/ \/
