Date:         Wed, 10 May 95 16:07:04 CDT
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Joel Walker <JWALKER@ua1vm.ua.edu>
Subject:      Article  Buying Used Buses (Australia, 1979)


Buying a Used Vehicle - The VW Kombi
Overlander Magazine, June 1979  (Australia)

Only rich men can afford to buy a new Kombi in 1979.  The $10,000 price
tag is more than $2,000 above comparable Japanese one-tonne vans.
Yet, for around $4,500 to $5,500, you can pick up a good used Kombi,
spend a few painstaking, PVC-covered hours armed with a pop-rivet gun
and sponge, fabric and plywood, and a round-Australia vehicle is yours.

Mechanically, the Kombi is straight-forward and with a good workshop
manual in one hand, and spare parts, spanners and screwdrivers in the
other, even bush mechanicking is possible.
The most attractive feature of the Kombi is its high ground clearance;
as well, most of its weight is concentrated over the driving wheels, and
its all-independent suspension is superior to that of most 2WD cars.
The Kombi has been around for 30 years.  It is one of the few vehicles
which can tolerate climatic and terrain extremes varying from the Arctic
tundra to the Sahara sand.

THE MODELS
>From an overlander's viewpoint, concentrate on 1969 and later models.
Anything earlier is getting too long in the tooth for reliable
long-distance touring.
There are five basic models: the single and double cab pickups; the
panel van; the Kombi (factory fitted side windows); the Microbus (seats,
head lining, skylights and so on).  Variations on the theme include
high-toppers and double sliding doors.

The easiest way to determine the year model is to look at the chassis
number.  The third number always indicates the model year, whether is
was assembled in Australia (up to 1977) or imported from Europe.  For
example, 224215326 means that the vehicle was built in 1974 (certainly,
it could indicate 1964, but one look at the body and its condition
should tell you if the vehicle is ten years older than the salesman
tells you).

Distinguishing features are:
1965-66: V-front, 1500 cc engine, 6V electrics; split windscreen;
         14-in wheels on European models, 15-in wheels on Australian
         versions; axle reduction gears.
1967:    12V electrics on European models; European panel vans had an
         optional sliding side door.
1968:    one-piece curved windscreen, wind-up front door windows,
         walk-through bulkhead; 1600 cc engine; 14-in wheels (all models),
         higher rear air intakes.
1969:    bigger front axle mounting flange.
1970:    front dash painted matt black.
1971:    front disc brakes; perforated wheel rims; relocated oil cooler;
         regulator to stop rear brakes locking in emergency; rear wheel
         track widened.
1972:    European models had optional 1700 cc, twin-carburettor engine;
         larger tail-lights; through-flow ventilation in front doors;
         gearbox chassis-mounted.
1973:    larger front disc brake pads; front indicator lights mounted
         higher; 1700 cc engine option in Australia; paper air filter;
         square bumper bar; engine bay hatch.
1974:    1800 cc engine; petrol filler flap removed; one-piece
         headlight reflector and lens.
1975:    uprated front seats and headrests.
1976:    2000 cc engine; fuel injection; 1600 cc engine discontinued.
1977:    all Australian models fully imported; front door quarter vents;
         chrome bumper bars on Microbuses.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Dust is the Kombi's biggest demon, especially on later models fitted
with paper air filters.  Check the condition of the carburettor if the
engine is fitted with a paper element.  While inspecting the engine,
compression test all four cylinders (they should be at least 750 kPa)
and check for oil leaks, which indicate a hard-worked motor.  Inspect
the oil cooler; if it leaks, the engine must be removed for repair.

On a test drive, listen for excessive gearbox whine; it can mean the
crown wheel and pinion or pinion bearings are worn (again, expensive to
repair).

Rust is not really a problem except in the battery compartment and in
the bodywork around the gutter rails.

Check that the front suspension has not sagged; there should be plenty
of clearance between the front wheels and wheel arches.

Although later model Kombis can withstand an 80 km/h collision (if the
passengers are restrained by seat belts), examine the front
door/windscreen pillars for damage or rewelding.

Front suspension ball joints are expensive to replace, so check around
the rubber boots.

Excessive wear on the inside of a rear tyre can indicate a bent rear
control arm.

If the vehicle you are considering is already converted to a campervan,
inspect how well the conversion has stood up to wear and tear.
Especially check around sink tops and door hinges ... any swelling here
or patch-jobs indicate the wood (especially if particle board) has
warped.

Pop-top roofs should be raised and the sleeve checked for damage.  Flush
water through the pump (if fitted) and note any rust or foreign matter
... it could mean a new water tank is needed.

Operate the folding bed mechanism; check underneath near the wheel
arches for rust or dust ... excessive amounts indicate poor care and
hard work.

Press up the headlining and feel for any protruding screws (most likely
found in Sopru conversions).  Several vehicles were recalled to have
screws adjusted so that they didn't puncture the driver's head on
impact.

Fridges and stoves should be checked (if fitted); inspect wiring for
both 12V and 240V power systems.

If a low-pressure stove is fitted, ensure that a separate gas
compartment, ventilated to the outside and stamped with a
gas-installer's license plate, is also included.  Turn on gas appliances
and check for leaks.

HOW MUCH TO PAY
Price naturally is determined by age and quality and whether the vehicle
is camper converted.

Obviously, larger engined models are going to give better highway
performance than early-model 1600 cc versions.  Bear this in mind, as
the premium may well be worth paying.

Partilally-converted vans are generally around $1,000 less than a fully
converted camper; they usually do not have pop-top roofs but do feature
seat/beds, stoves and fridges.  Extras such as 'roo bars, radio/cassette
decks and automatic transmission will also boost used vehicle prices.

SECOND-HAND PRICES
Price**            Vans       Semi-Campers      Campers
Up to $2,000       -1970      -1969             -1969
$2,000 - $2,500    1970-71    1970              1969-70
$2,500 - $3,000    1971-72    1970-71           1970
$3,000 - $3,500    1972-73    1971-72           1970-71
$3,500 - $4,000    1973-74    1972-73           1971-72
$4,000 - $4,500    1974-75    1973-74           1972-73
$4,500 - $5,000    1975       1974-75           1973
$5,000 - $5,500    1975-76    1974-75           1973-74
$5,500 - $6,000    1976       1974-75           1974-75
$6,000 - $6,500    1976-77    1975-76           1975
$6,500 - $7,000    1977       1976-77           1975-76
$7,000 - $7,500    1977-78    1977              1976
$7,500 - $8,000    1978       1977-78           1976-77
$8,000 - $9,000    1978       1978              1977-78
$9,000 -           1978-79    1978-79           1978

** Prices are based on classified advertisements for private sales and
dealers' yard quotations for vehicles in good condition.