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Date:         Wed, 19 Jul 1995 11:21:45 -0300
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         smitht@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Tim Smith)
Subject:      Re: Body Work 'Leading'

Apologies to the list, a member posted for info on lead work, lost their address

taken from Haynes manual: Porsche 911 - Guide to Purchase and DIY Restoration

only 4 pages, so don't buy it for this stuff alone.

1) preparation: electric drill etc + wire wheels, sandpaper, get the surface CLEAN and SHINEY, then wipe down thoroughly with Methylated Spirits. Do not touch with fingers etc after this step.

2) tin the surface using tinmans solder, 60% lead/40% tin, using a torch. Apply some flux, heat up the surface, apply the solder and wipe over/into area to be leaded using a cloth coated with flux. Get a thin shiney coat of solder over all areas to be filled. Catch the drips in a spill tray. If this is done poorly the next step won't 'take'!

3) fill the surface using bodymans solder, 70% lead 30%tin, get a semi soft blob onto the surface and work it into areas needing fill using a flux coated wooden paddle and the torch to aid/control flow. catch the drips, but don't mix up the solders!

4) grind/Surform/sand smooth, as with normal bondo

5) skim with bondo to fill in pits etc. (just no escaping bondo!)

6) finish as usual..... have fun

The authors indicated no major benefits of lead over bondo, aside from the purist restoration concept. Porsche use(d?) lead in rocker and rear fender/body areas. Indicated that seams are as likely to rust, but the lead flexes better, therefor less likely to crack out. This might be the way to fix those damned vanagon body seams, mine are visibly cracked/rusting. Usual warning about lead and your diet, small children etc. tim s.


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