Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (September 1995)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Tue, 26 Sep 1995 20:54:42 -0500 (CDT)
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         dakhlia@wuecona.wustl.edu (Sami Dakhlia)
Subject:      Re: VW repairs shops directory

Paul:

you don't really need to take the vehicle to a VW specialist, not if he's far away. The check-up is basic: compression test, brake system, etc. In fact, even you could do it. Well, I know how it is at first without any previous experience: I, too, lacked the confidence of doing the check-up myself when I bought my bus in '91. But you could still do a pre-check to determine if the bus even qualifies for a professional inspection. Get yourself Muir's bible and read the chapter on buying a VW.

Essentially, you want to testdrive the bus to see how it feels, steers, accelerates, brakes, but *mainly* to get away from the owner. Once alone with the bus, crawl under and look for rust perforations, various leaks (engine, transmission, brake cylinders, exhaust system). Also be suspicious if the engine has been recently steam cleaned. Bring a magnet and look for bondo work or fiberglass fixes covered up with undercoating.

Do the same magnet test with the body. Check for rust under all window seals, especially under the windshield. You should expect some, but again watch out for perforations. Check tire wear: is it even? Wiggle the steering wheel (at a standstill): is there much play? Of course, you'll look at the interior, which often reflects how the bus has been treated.

There are certainly more things to check out. Anyone else who wants to share their check-up routines?

If the bus passes your test, then take it to the professional. If things need to be fixed, ask for an estimate and use that figure when bargaining, should you have decided that the bus is worthy.

IMHO, a nice Westy breadloaf, with no major flaws should cost $2,500 to $3,500. Yes, we've heard of great buys ("like new bus for $800"), but those are flukes, not something you can afford to wait for. And then, there are those among us who feel that their pristine busses are worth, like, $5,000 (I do), but they shouldn't be selling in the first place.

Ideally, the bus would have 10,000 to 40,000 miles on a rebuilt engine. (rebuilts differ: make sure you get the paperwork to see what exactly had been done). Beware of busses with less than 10,000 since "rebuilt."

I don't know enough about the other type2 generations to have a valid opinion on how much they should cost. Maybe others will chime in.

-- Sami ('75 Westf.) dakhlia@wuecona.wustl.edu http://wuecon.wustl.edu/~samid/


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.