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Date:         Tue, 5 Sep 95 10:28:12 EDT
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         John Anderson <ja@coe.wvu.edu>
Subject:      Late F.I. Gas Lines

Now I know, we have all been over the importance of changing the rubber lines, time and time again but I wanted to make some points considering I have changed the lines on a '76, '77, and '78 as of this weekend. The first thing I note is that VW seems to have abandoned the famous cloth braided cover hose in late '76. My '76 had that hose, shielded between the sides of the fuel main ring and the cold start valve by a grey sheath. This hose is the least I would ever use for replacement, goes about $6 the meter from your local VW supply house, hose clamps were the VW crimp style, likely most will use standard stainless clamps as replacements. It takes about 2-3 meters to do a '74-'77 as the rubber hose goes all the way from the tank to the fuel pump. Now imagine my suprise when the '77 does not have the good old braided hoses. Instead it uses a hose that looks more american in manufacture, having a smooth finely lined surface, reinforcement sandwiched between 2 layers of rubber, and a spiral running along the outside. Looks very much like some high pressure hydraulic oil hose. Well the '77 also has the fuel pump relocated to the rear frame rail above the rear wheel, not below the floor like a '76 (a better safer location IMHO on the '77) and uses the standard VW crimp clamps as well (these suckers can easily be chopped off BTW with a pair of good high quality 8" diagonal cutters). Well the '77 also eliminates the sheath over the lines on the fuel main ring which I knew cloth braided hose Buses had so I was leery to substitute the older hose. A quick look through the Automotion (Porsche people, good catalog if you can get a copy since 914/Bus overlap at times) catalog reveals the correct stuff, this is German "smooth pressure hose" they call it in their fuel line section, same ID as the other, OD is a bit smaller, goes about $10 the meter (ouch), I ordered some and it is exactly like OEM. Well the confusion of course does not end with the '77, and in fact the '78 is what I really want to talk about as I think some major steps were taken backward in fuel system safety. For '78 VW went into fuel system paranoia, the heater flapper boxes have hoods that channel the heat away to a couple of exhaust tubes mounted on the engine support points (a good idea I always worried about all that heat getting dumped right under the fuel hoses on both sides), and there is a blanket of aluminum faced insulation under the entire tank area held up by little metal tabs (this I don't care for as the insulation holds water against the body with predicatable results), but what is really troublesome is that VW got some great idea about going to copper clad steel fuel lines on the exterior of the car with short smooth rubber hose jumpers between the tank and the steel line, the steel line and the filter, etc. etc. The first thing I don't like is that this mean twice the connections on the rubber lines, meaning you need twice the clamps and have twice the opportunity for your current lines to be leaking. Clamps on the low pressure side are crimp, on the high pressure side are VW type screw hose clamp. Now guess what IF YOU REPLACED YOUR RUBBER LINES WITHOUT LOOKING AT THE STEEL LINES, GO BACK NOW!! The steel lines on the outside of the car may look good from below but on my '78 (a not run in winter generally rust free bus) the tops of the lines were fairly corroded right through the copper cladding, not bad but would have been in a little while, particularly the small line from fuel pressure regulator to the return port in the tank. Moreover a TRAGIC design flaw came about, the steel line from the left side injector bank was extended through the firewall, where previously a flexible hose had passed. The typical VW rubber grommet solution was maintained, personally I like the rubber hose going through better as it being less rigid could vibrate freely, the steel line simply wears down the grommet and eventually I imagine itself. My solution was to rotate the grommet to a more unworn position and sleeve the steel line with a 1" piece of cloth braided hose slit down the side and slid to the appropriate position. Now for the last little bitch, and this goes for air cooled and maybe H20 Vanagons as well. the steel lines from injector bank to cold start valve looked great, no corrosion, but since I was changing the rubber ends I took em out and lo and behold, THE CABLE TIE SECURING THEM TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNERS HAD SEVERELY ABRADED THE SURFACE OF THE LINES!! Here again as mine didn't look that bad and replacements were not readily available I sleeved them with a piece of old fuel line and cable tied around that. On the rusted exterior lines I half thought about replacing with rubber like the '77 but instead, cleaned them well, degreased them and sprayed with rust resistant zinc paint, maybe not as good a solution as I should do, I note that the long line between tank and fuel filter was rusting UNDER A LAYER OF UNDERCOATING, so don't assume you are OK, be sure.

Sorry this has gone on so long Safe driving everyone. John (ja@coe.wvu.edu)


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