Date:         Wed,  6 Sep 95 16:23:07 PDT
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Steve Reilly <steve@caliban.ucsd.edu>
Subject:      RE: baja trip roster update 


On Wednesday Sept 6th Martha wrote:


>David Garth?  Steve Reilly?  Can you help us with some itenary plans.  I 
>draw a pathetic complete blank where Mexico is concerned, but I'm game to 
>tackle whatever you guys can come up with...

I've just returned from a month away from daily life with vanagon@lenti and 
so I'm a bit out of touch with recent plans and discussion on the Baja trip 
(been out chasing blue whales and their chow around the Southern California 
Channel Islands...not a VW in sight, but those animals are large enough to 
swallow one. Picture Guiseppe [was that his name?] and Pinocchio in a 61 
Westy with fine wood paneling, instead of a boat...). Have you settled on 
definite dates? Any destinations been agreed? The number of names on the 
roster is impressive! If anything near this number of vans actually 
materializes for the trip, we will have to make sure we select destinations 
that can handle our traffic. Many of the places I'm most familiar with 
(surfing spots between Santo Tomas and El Rosario) couldn't handle more than 
about 6 vehicles. Following are some suggestions that come to mind 
immediately. With a little more info on duration of the trip, desired types 
of destinations, etc, there are plenty of other options, too.

If we cross the border later than first light, and want to stop in Ensenada 
for necessary provisions like Grendain Ollitas (the best tequila on the 
globe, IMHO), limes,  etc, an easy destination for the first afternoon would 
be the 'El Palomar' camp ground/trailer park/fine little cafe at Santo 
Tomas. Its right on the highway, but quite peaceful and charming in spite of 
the truck noise at night, and the cafe serves up some fine food, too. This 
isn't really too far into Mexico, only about a hundred miles or so, but 
those hundred miles can be pretty hectic, especially the border area and the 
stretch from where the pay road ends north of Ensenada to the south end of 
Maneadero. I really enjoyed Tobin Copley's trip report for this area. His 
description of the large speed bumps (Topes Grandes!!) was spot on. Anyway, 
Sto. Tomas has been a good stop for me on those occasions when I didn't 
cross the border until mid-day, after last minute repacking, shopping, 
buying insurance at the border, and so on. If we do get away early in the 
day, then no problemo, push on.

If the group's wish is for some beach camping, there are quite a few 
possibilities between Cape Colonet and San Quintin. If searching for surf is 
low on the list of priorities, there are some nice and easily accessible 
beach camping spots around the bay at San Quintin. For a little more 
adventure and the chance for the syncros to strut their stuff (and maybe 
pull a few 4x2 vans out of soft sand) the peninsula is a great choice. Its 
been some years since I was out there, but I recall it being quite striking 
and fairly remote feeling, even though a fair sized town and semi-luxury 
hotel sit across the bay.

For a three day trip this may be as far as some would wish to go. With a 
little more time or a wish to keep on moving rather than kick back at the ol 
camp site, there are many gems to be found just down the road. Along the 
road between San Quintin and El Rosario the beaches are as close as they get 
to the highway, with easy access to a few nice spots. I'd recommend the 
stretch south of El Soccoro. There are some dirt tracks leaving the road 
that lead through short ravines to beautiful white sand beaches. 

At El Rosario the road turns inland for a long stretch, so say goodbye to 
the ocean unless you're prepared for some long, tough going on dirt roads. 
Last summer I drove my poor abused darlin' 90 Wolfsburg out the 50+ mile 
torture road to Punta San Carlos in a vain search for uncrowded point surf. 
I'd just put on a new set of KYB gas-adjust shocks ($400 - ouch!) and they 
were pounded into semisoftness by the 100 mile round trip on this road. 
There is some fine desert scenery along the way,though, with the 
northernmost boojun or elephant trees showing up, some giant cardon cactus, 
and some cirios, too. The wind blew like a banshee out at the point for 
three solid days. Windsurfers camped there in large numbers were 
disgustingly gleeful in the 35mph winds, but the camping was less than 
pleasant, and the surf never materialized from yet another dud of a 
hurricane off Cabo San Lucas. And some people think surfing is all fun and 
endless positive feedback. Geez.

Anyway, for those with even more time to spend, I'd highly recommend going 
as far as the amazing boulder and cactus fields at Catavina. This place is 
pure magic. The morning and evening light there is unlike anything else. 

Its hard to imagine a list trip going any further south, so I won't go on 
and on with this narrative. One side trip worth considering that has been 
mentioned  in a few other postings is the road at San Telmo (a little south 
of the town of Colonet) up to the Meling Ranch (about 32 miles of dirt road 
that reportedly is in OK shape). For those really into exploring this area, 
the road continues on up the the observatories high up in the Sierra San 
Pedro Martir national park. Pine trees and incredible views to be found in 
abundance up there - a slice of Baja most find unexpected and a real treat.

Well, here are some suggetions folks. So whaddaya think?


Steve Reilly