Date:         13 Sep 1995 10:04:33 -0700
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         "Harvey Chao" <Harvey_Chao@smtp.svl.trw.com>
Subject:      Re: Diesels

                      RE>Diesels                                   9/13/95


Does anyone out there have a diesel vanagon/westy. Was wondering what people
thought of these. What was the first and last year that these were produced
and what are their particular strengths adn weaknesses. 
==================================================

Netters not interested in diesels can ignore this post.

Other replies are pretty much "on the money" already.  My experience/ $0.02:

1)  I think that '82 was the only year the diesel vans were officially impoted
by VW NA.
2)  Mine has been a particularly reliable vehicle.  Typiclly a mechanically
fuel injected diesel will either pretty much start and run or it won't .  If
it won't it is probably either something pretty simple (fault/failure in the
glow plug circuit, lack of fuel) or it is major, (failed injection pump, worn
cyinders/rings/low compression).
3)  These vehicles use the same 1.6L diesel installed in rabbits/jettas of the
same year vintage with the exception that I believe they use a different
injection pump and can be timed a little more aggressively to maximize power
output
4)  Fuel economy of a plain 4 sp. manual vanagon in a mixed town/freeway
environment is just over 30 MPG.  It doesn't change when fully loaded running
on a long trip either.
5)  Acceleration, under any circumstances, can only be graciously described as
"leisurely" at best.  Learn to drive defensively, pick a good sized hole when
you attempt to merge.
6)  As the original owner, I changed oil and filter every 3 months,
regardless.  My wife drove the van for 112K miles before blowby became
excessive.  This was manifested by blowby pressurizing the crankcase enought
to force sump oil out the filler tube.  I had also heard of instances where
excessive blowby somehow created a condition where sump oil got ingested via
the intake, burned in the cylinders and creating a major uncontrolled
"runaway" condition.  A good visual sign of this is black sump oil spray 
splattered on the outside of the  tailgate hatch and inside the engine
compartment.  I had a GEX longblock installed, and the van is now somewhere
around 155K miles.  I have heard of engine life as short as 60K.
7)  The engine is 52 hp, revs hard and high, works hard all the time.
8) 1st gear is a real "stump puller" only useful to get the vehicle rolling,
=> immediate shift to 2nd (which redlines about 25-28 mph) => 3rd comes up
fast, (redlines around 45 mph) => 4th to cruise.  Will cruise on reasonably
level terrain at 55-60 mph all day.
9)  Has a very generous radiator. IF the cooling system is in good condition,
it is almost impossible to get the electric radiator fan to come on.
10) A/C was not available and a bright red warning label on the camshaft belt
housing warns against attempted aftermarket installation.
11)  A new engine or one with equivalent compression can be started, cold, in
moderate temperatures (ie "ideal donditions) without glow plugs  - you may
have to crank it a bit, but it should start.  OTHERWISE you'll need glowplugs,
and then it should start almost instantly if ambient temperatures are above 50
degrees F.
12) Oil changes are about the easiest on any vehicle I have ever owned.  There
is a 13mm bolt on the bottom the the cast aluminum sump that you access
through a hole provided in the tin shround on the bottom the engine
compartment.  It is not necessary to remove this bolt, just unscrew it and it
opens a port in the sump and the oil drains out.  The engine is laid over on
it's side to the left of centerline as you look into the engine compartment. 
The oil filter is a bit forward of the transverse centerline of the engine,
and on the top of the block.  Between the oilfilter mounting fixture that
bolts to the block and the filter itself is an oil cooler that has engine
coolant circulating through ilt.  The oil filter is tipped slightly down from
horizontal with the screw on end "high".  Snapped to the oil filter bridging
the interface between the filter and oil cooler is a black plastic "cup" that
catches the oil that will dribble out as soon as you loosen the filter to
replace it.  This keeps the oil from spilling all over the lower part of the
block and sump and then into the tin on the bottom of the engine compartment. 
If you further want to keep things clean when you remove the filter, take a
full sheet of newspaper, fold it in half, and tuck it under the area of the
oil filter.  Any oil you drip or spill is trapped on the newspaper and when
finished you just wad it up as you remove it and everything stays nice and
clean.
13)  Speaking of engine oil - when you change it, you should expect it to turn
coal black within very few miles.  Even with a brand new engine.  All 3 VW
diesels I've had did that and I expect it is "normal".
14)  Heater works GREAT! (All things are relative - I live in the San
Francisco Bay area, and temperatures rarely dip into the mid 30's in the
winter.)
15)  Changing engine coolant is somewhat of a pain with the location of the
engine in the back and the radiator in front.  Gotta be careful about air
bubbles in the cooling system.
16)  A real NO NO is to let the engine overheat.  Cast Iron block, Alloy head,
23:1 compression ratio.  Doesn't take much to warp a head, doesn't take much
warp to blow a head gasket  -- need I say more?
17)  VW has some history of cracked engine blocks in their diesels, likewise
blown head gaskets.  Applies to Jettas, Rabbits, Vans.  Oil in the coolant is
a pretty sure and bad sign.  Easy to spot  if you check the pressurized
coolant resivouir-  the oil is coal black and floats on top of the coolant.
18)  Glow plug circuit:
   a)  There is a fuse mounted on the bulkhead behind the engine.  The fuse
itself is stamped out of some allow and is shaped like an upsidedown squared
off "U".  The fuse tends to fatigue in the middle of the cross bar and
fracture.  Carry spare fuses.
   b)  The glow plugs are controlled by a relay module with some control
electronics and contact points.  I have had 2 instances over 12 years where
the contacts have arced closed.  This is bad.  This causes the glow plugs to
remain on, independent of "ignition" key position.  The glow plugs
collectively draw about 50 amps.  If left on because of a failed control
relay,  the battery won't last long (15 -20 minutes for a new DieHard) before
it is discharged if the engine isn't running or if the engine is running there
is a pretty good chance of physical damage to the head and pistons (I've seen
an example of this, fortunately, not mine).  My solution is to wire an
indicator light on the dash to light up whenever there is power on the glow
plug buss.  The control relay is balck, about 1" spuare, about 2" tall, and
plugs into a socket next to the glow plug fuse.

If you have any specific questions, feel free to E-mail me direct.
Harvey