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Date:         Tue, 21 Nov 1995 09:27:26 EDT
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         "Ed." <CLAIBORN@cw-f1.umd.umich.edu>
Subject:      Re: Carbs on '72 Camper

> Received: from SpoolDir by CW-F1 (Mercury 1.21); 20 Nov 95 18:31:37 EDT > Return-path: <vanagon@lenti.med.umn.edu> > Received: from mhub1.tc.umn.edu by cw-f1.umd.umich.edu (Mercury 1.21); > 20 Nov 95 18:31:22 EDT > Received: from lenti.med.umn.edu by mhub1.tc.umn.edu; Mon, 20 Nov 95 17:29:08 -0600 > Received: from halfdan (halfdan.med.umn.edu) by lenti.med.umn.edu; Mon, 20 Nov 95 17:29:31 CST > Date: Mon, 20 Nov 1995 17:28:55 -0600 > Received: from (localhost) by halfdan; Mon, 20 Nov 1995 17:28:55 -0600 > Message-Id: <603329.ensmtp@ktca.org> > Errors-To: gsker@lenti.med.umn.edu > Reply-To: Dpreston@ktca.org > Originator: vanagon@lenti.med.umn.edu > Sender: vanagon@lenti.med.umn.edu > Precedence: none > From: Dpreston@ktca.org (David Preston) > To: Multiple recipients of list <vanagon@lenti.med.umn.edu> > Subject: Carbs on '72 Camper > X-Listprocessor-Version: 6.0c -- ListProcessor by Anastasios Kotsikonas > X-Mailer: ExpressNet/SMTP v1.1.5 > X-PMFLAGS: 34603136 > > My idle cut-off valve on my left (stock) carb on my 1972 VAN is stripped out. > To remedy this I stuck a teflon coated 8mm course thread bolt in the hole. At > least it's not leaking fuel from there anymore. Questions. 1) What harm am I > doing or problems am I creating? 2) Eventually I am going to fix this, I hear > (see) a lot of discussions about Webers. Is this an upgrade that is worth > while? what is the merits of a Weber over the stock Solex? > > Thanks for your wisdom. > > david

I have the same problem with my '72. Not having the valve in properly created no end of problems to the way the bus ran or idled. I striped the end of a piece of electrical cord, spred out the fibers, and wraped them around the threads. I then wrapped the threads and wire in teflon tape. Enough to create an air tight fit and crammed the whole unit back into the carb. finally I ran the other end of the wire to the body to create a ground that would have otherwise been compromised due to the lack of contact between the module and the carb caused by the teflon. It works well as a temporary solution but I am told that if the module is seated just a hair off It will begin to distort the end of the piston and won't seat properly when the carb is fixed or replaced. I am also told that using j.b.weld or other reconstructant to fix the threads is a bad idea due to the straightness thing. You basically have to replace that portion of your carb. There is a v.w. place in my area that said he would sell me a carb that needed rebuilding for $25. I could then buy a gasket set and swap good parts from both carburetors to make one good one rather than pay the $300 to have some one else do it. When I get the cash and the time I'll let you know how it goes. good luck. Ed.


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