Date:         Fri, 5 Jan 1996 14:12:02 -0800
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         eugp@uclink3.berkeley.edu (Eugene C. Palmer)
Subject:      Re: engine recommendations

Dean, and the list just for fun,

>Eugene,
>I have been thinking more and more about the engine I want to build and 
>place in Opie ('68 crew cab).  Currently he has a 1600 dual port - stock 
>except that there is no thermostat/vanes/linkage and it has a 009 dist.  I 
>re-read your recommendations from 25 sept and found it very good food for 
>thought.  I do have some questions.
>
>I ordered the catalog and instructions manuals from Berg yesterday.  Should 
>help with knowledge some.  (some?)  Have the "How to Rebuild" book.  Read
the "How to 
>Hotrod" book, but didn't find much that I didn't know from reading the list 
>& Bob's sermons.
>
>My basic engine requirements are:  full flow oil filter, sand seal, (Why a
sand seal?) cd 
>ignition and hydraulic lifters.  Stock carb (?), 009 dist, stock displacement 
>(1600), stock exhaust (?), & stock cam.

I would go for a stronger carb and exhaust, a higher lift rocker arm, and HD
single springs on the valves.

>
>Do you know where to get either a quality filter/pump or pump with external 
>filter connections?

By now you've got your Berg catalog and can see the options.  I would just
stick with an HP1 replaceable filter.  No filter/pump combos for me.

>
>You mention hydraulic lifters, but not in detail.  Do you have any info on 
>them?  Experience with them?  Doing hydraulics and external full flow oil 
>filter - does this automatically require 30mm oil pump?

I am not an expert on hydraulic lifters, check with Bob Hoover on those.  I
have an opinion not based in fact that hyd. lifters should only be used with
stock weight valve springs on a stock cam, and require the 30mm pump.

>
>Do you take your rotating assembly for balancing, or just buy a good quality 
>crank and balance the rods & pistons yourself?

Yes, rods and pistons are balanced separately and the crank is done with
flywheel and pulley.

>
>What are case spigots?

A cute name for the holes the cylinders fit into in the case.

>
>Do you use swivel foot valve adjusters?

I have Bergs 1.4:1 ratio rockers with the arced tip.  I do use them in other
engines, but I always carry a spare set of stock rockers with stock
adjusters so that if one breaks I can get home.

>
>You mention "the bigger the carb, the more timing you can run."  How so?

I'm not sure why, better fuel distribution I think, but it's true,
especially when changing from a single to duals.

>
>You also talk about the success you had with the Dellorto FRD 34 carb.  Is 
>this a shared bowl, dual throat carb?  

If you mean a single venturi with split runners to the intake ports, yes.

>I am running a pair of DLRA (45s) on my 2.0 type 4 bus.  Are they similar.  

I don't think so, isn't the DLRA a dual venturi, dual carb?  Capable of much
greater air/fuel flow than the FRD 34.  Though properly adjusted it
shouldn't use that much more fuel unless driven hard, when it can use lots
of fuel to deliver lots more power. 

>I like the power, but don't get much mileage.  I need to play around with
this - your comment on timing is 
>interesting in this context also.
>
>Re: carbs, I like singles from the simplicity standpoint (and Bob's 
>reasoning in his sermon on such).  The current solex 34 PICT 3 is fine 
>although I might be convinced to go to a weber progressive if I could be 
>assured that the mileage wouldn't go down.

After you find out how much more fun they are to drive the mileage will
definitely go down.  At least mine does, however with a light foot I think
Bob says things are comparable or better than stock.  Ask him, he's the
progressive expert.  I still like the duals, even though they can be such a
pain.

>
>Your current setup doesn't have a thermostat.  Based on list comments and 
>Bob's adamancy on having it, I'm a little nervous about driving Opie during 
><40 f weather since the current engine has no vanes/thermostat, etc, either. 
> What do you think.  I think whatever I build will have one.

My engine that doesn't have the thermostat is a "throw-away" engine built
from parts lying around the basement without regard for service longevity.
I would normally carefully install the thermostat and feel better about it.

>
>Thanks for the info in the original post.  TIA for any response.
>
>Dean