Date:         Thu, 8 Feb 1996 13:59:08 -0700
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         john@nbs.gov (John W Clark)
Subject:      82 fi electrical question

     
     
     hey all -
     
     A few weeks ago I finished installing a long block.  based on advice 
     from a shop I removed all the FI equipment as one unit so I had less 
     connections to undo and redo.  The air distrib., injectors, fuel ring, 
     and cable harness were transfered as one unit.  I remember 
     disconnecting the electrical connections to the aux. air valve and 
     thermo time switch (the thing that lives under the air distrib.) 
     
     The think runs WAY too rich and chokes out after 5 or 10 minutes. At 
     first I thought maybe I had excess fuel pressure.  I tested it at 
     lunch today and it's ok.
     
     So me thinks either damaged electronics (hope not), an injector or two 
     stuck open (from pencil debris {see earlier posts}) or 
     electrical/plumbing connections done incorrectly.  I'd guess that the 
     injectors would get clogged not stuck open if there were debris in the 
     fuel line.
     
     John Huguenard posted a note last month about reversing the electrical 
     connections between the auxilary air valve and cold start valve.  His 
     symptoms sound similar to mine. I don't recall disconnecting the cold 
     start valve (but I might have, see paragraph 1) but I did disconnect 
     the thermo-time sensor(thermo-temp sensor?).  So question 1 is how can 
     I differentiate between these connections (thermo time/cold start/aux. 
     air)?  If I reverse them and run the motor (to see if they're cross 
     connected) do I risk damaging the brain ?   I suppose it's safe to 
     disconnect the cold start connector and start the motor to see if it 
     runs better - though I can use a test lamp (see next paragraph) to 
     gather similar data.
     
     , and the other pondering: I have a shop manual (neither hayes nor 
     bentley) that describes diagnostic procedures on this system using a 
     'test lamp'  that looks like a screwdriver with a bulb in it and a 
     wire w/alligator clip. You connect it across the cold start valve 
     connector (for example) and see if the light lights, and how long it 
     lights, etc.  anyone know if this will be a 12 v bulb ?  If so I'll 
     use my static timer light and clip leads.  Then I can sit in the front 
     turning the key, watching the lamps in the rear view mirror.  Of 
     course I have to figure the answer to question 1 first ..........
     
     
     cheers (is it friday yet)
     
     john