Date:         Fri, 22 Mar 1996 02:41:59 -0500
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Gcarlen@aol.com
Subject:      Re: 86 Vanagon CV boots replacement

In a message dated 96-03-21 10:34:49 EST, schroszy@nslsilus.org writes:

>My van has one torn CV boot. I was wondering is it an easy procedure to
>replace. Which is the best replacement part (original VW or other) for the
>money to get? Does the tire have to be removed? What tools are needed? Is
>it easy to do a whole set of 4 at the same time. Thank you for any info.
>
>

With only one boot torn (as apposed to dryrotted), I would only replace the
one boot.  You should, however, clean & repack the CV since the possibility
of dirt getting to it is almost assured.

If it is one of the inner boots, simply remove the six screws holding the
boot & CV joint to the transmission.  The axle will drop down and the CV
joint can be GENTLY tapped off the axle spline with a hammer.  (I use a
plasitc hammer to prevent damage to the CV joint).  Clean the CV joint in
degrease and thouroughly dry.  Repack with a high quality CV grease.  Do not
use all purpose lithium grease.  It will not withstand the high temperatures
and motion of the CV joint.

Install the new boot on the drive shaft.  Then install the CV joint on the
spline of the shaft.  (This is the tricky part).  It will be difficult to
align the spline and the grooves of the CV joint but a little patience and a
few gentle taps of a plastic hammer you will have the CV joint in place.
 Then realign the drive shaft/CV joint and install the six bolts.

If it is the outer CV joint, you will have to remove the drive shaft.  Remove
the tire, brake drum, brakes & hardware, and brake backing plate.  This will
give you access to the CV joint housing.  There are four bolts holding the
bearing assembly to the CV joint housing.  Remove these and the entire
bearing assembly will slide off the axle spline.  The CV joint will than rest
on the bottom of the CV joint housing.  Then follow the steps above to remove
the axle assembly from the transmission.  

Reverse the order to reassemble.  I use thin hose clamps (from FLAPS) instead
of the ones that come with most CV boots.  They seem to fit better.  Don't
forget to adjust the brake shoes and bleed the brake line.

This is just a basic description of how to replace a CV joint.  If your CVs
are clicking at all, its time for repacement.  Some folks say replace both
from the same axle and some say replace all four at once.  The theory is that
if one fails, the other(s) are also weak and more stress will be put on the
weaker CV thus causing premature failure of the weak CV.  It also could be
that it is only a matter of time before the other(s) fail since they are
weak.

Anyway, the procedure is not very difficult.  I would recommend acquiring
Bentleys and reviewing before starting in.  Block out about half a day if you
haven't done one before.  The basic hand tools are needed.  The only special
tools I can think of are:  and 8mm allen wrench for the CV joint bolts, a
32mm? socket for the axle nut, a breaker bar to help get that axle nut off,
and a torque wrench.  Instead of an allen wrench, I use an 8mm allen socket
so I can torque the CV bolts correctly.  I also found a 12in socket extension
bar to help reach the CV bolts.

Finally,  after about 100 and again at 500 miles, check the torque on the CV
bolts to make sure they are secure.  I bought my CV joints from JC Whitney at
$65 each along with the boots for about $5 ea.  One of the CVs failed within
the first 100 miles but JCW promply replaced it.  Things have been fine for
the past 35k since I replaced all 4 of my CVs.

Good luck,

-Gregg
85 Westy, 76 Goldwing, 51 Plymouth, 75 Mercedes.