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Date:         Sun, 28 Apr 1996 11:45:52 -0400
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         dworkin@ari.net (H Steven Dolan)
Subject:      Re: Is this normal? (1977 camper advice)

Well, never having been one to shy away from a religious war (Jewish, proud of it; German proud of that, too :-) Here goes:

>About one month ago I purchased my first VW bus, a pea green 1977 >camper with 135,000 miles on the original engine and transmission. It >had been used by a single family, strictly for camping, and it has a >beautiful interior.

Congratulations! Wise move! (though I would wonder a bit about their veracity. 135,000mi/19yrs=7,105mi/yr. That's a lot of camping!)

> >Transmission: > >I have had some difficulty down shifting into first and second gear. >I learned how to ease it into gear, but it would still occasionally >grind. I have started double clutching as I down shift (revving the >engine while in neutral with the clutch engaged) and with this >technique it always goes into gear easily.

A near certain sign of weak synchronizers on the 1st/2nd hub. Next stop, new tranny.

>It always down shifts into third (single clutching) with no problem.

right up till it explodes. The 3rd/4th hub doesn't get half the workout the 1st/2nd hub does, and, thus, is usually the last thing to go.

>Is this a sign of synchro trouble,

yes, maybe (see below)

>and should I do anything besides getting comfortable with double >clutching?

Start saving for a rebuilt tranny.

>It never pops out of gear on its own.

Not yet, just wait.

>It is sometimes difficult to put into first when stopped, but I found >that if I first shift it into second it then shifts into first easily. >A friend told me that the gear shift lever has more side to side play >when it is in gear than he is used to. Also, when it shifts into >first or second it goes with a bit of a click, not from the >transmission, but apparently from the base of the shift lever. Is >this a sign of a loose shift linkage?

Well, from my experiences, I would say that it sounds like your 1st/2nd synchro's are weak. OTOH, a badly adjusted linkage can act like this. Also, most VW trannys don't start showing their age 'til the 200-225K mile range and you are way below that. On the third hand (damn Martians!) if it ran dry for any period of time, it would age much faster. Get the linkage adjusted, change the fluid, check for fluid leaks, and if that fixes the problem, wonderful!. Otherwise double clutch and start saving.

> >Transmission oil: > >My owner's manual says that the gear oil should last forever,

As my father, the judge, would say, "Bullshit, 30 days, next case",

>but after all this time should I change it?

Yes!

>If so, is the 90 weight hypoid oil easy to find? The only straight 90 weight gear oil that I have seen is for marine use.

I am strong with David Schwarze on this, 90W-130 is wonderful stuff. I forget where last I got it, but is is available in better auto parts stores. If you are in AK, ND, or somewhere else where it gets to -20 or worse on a regular basis, consider going to 80W-90 in the winter (only).

>Engine oil: > >Is it advisable to clean the oil screen or should I suppress the >temptation and only change the twist-on filter?

David says he cleans the screen and I can't argue with him too much. OTOH, I don't. I have always figured that if the filter didn't catch it the screen sure won't. David, counter please? You might talk me into changing my habits.

>I truly do not want to start a religious war, but is there an FAQ >which summarizes the various arguments about engine oil types in a VW. >The PO used 10W40 but the local VW guru suggested using straight 30 >weight. In chapter X of the idiot's guide, John Muir recommends >straight 30 weight, but chapter XX (written after John Muir's death) >recommends 10W30.

I run (in norther Virginia {planting zone 6[-10-100F]}) 20W-50 all the time. Frequent changes (2K-3K mi) anr much more important. Got 150K miles out of my last engine and changed it out still running, but with ~100-105 compressions (cross country trip coming up, and I had some spare cash)(and got the replacement from GEX. 30K miles and no problems) (one of these days I will post on engine overhauls....)

>Fuel: > >Again not wanting to start a religious war, I would like to see a >summary of arguments concerning fuel octane for VWs. My owner's >manual says to use 91 RON octane and that this is 87 (R+M)/2 octane >(the method commonly used in the US). The PO had always used low test >gas and never experienced pinging when accelerating. Someone told me >that the higher octane fuel helps the engine run cooler. Is this true >even if the engine does not ping? I plan on running some experiments >once I get my oil temp gauge (VDO dip stick type) installed. I >understand how higher octane gas might be necessary in hotter weather, >but how does altitude affect this? At first glance, I would think >that lower air pressure would decrease the chance of predetonation.

More bull. I have never run other than 87 (R+M)/2 octane gas in any of my VW's. If you are not pinging you need not run higher octane gas. (and I mean .) If you are pinging, run higher octane all the way to your mechanic to get a tune up. (Flame suit on) IMHO, no stock VW engine needs other than 87 octane gas, unless badly misstuned. The only thing higher octane gas gives you is more anti-knock. If you are not knocking, why buy it? The BTU/lb is the same for all grades of gas. Your engine will only "run cooler" if it is pinging. The solution for me is to retard the timing, not advance the octane.

> >My engine does not seem to run hot. After climbing the Blue Ridge >when it is 80F the engine does not smell hot and the dipstick is >comfortable to hold. I will find out for sure when I drive across the >country this summer.

Sounds good. Mechanic's rule #1 - If it ain't broke, don't fix it. > >Brakes: > >To get the emergency brake to hold on a steep hill I need to pull the >handle back quite far and very hard. Is this normal?

No. Your rear brake shoes need adjusting. Soon. I tend to go for 5-8 clicks on the hand brake as adequate adjustment and anything more than 12-15 as time to crawl under the van with a screwdriver. Check the Bentley manual (you do have a Bentley, don't you?) and remember three turns, each shoe, then re-center. 'Til they just whisper against the drum.

Illustrative Story:

I got my last bus free. The PO had let the brake shoes get out of adjustment, drove it up a hill and parked it. During the night it backed itself down the hill ~100 feet until the tree stopped it. bent the bumper, the engine door, the upper door, and crushed the ($700.00) fan housing. Don't let this happen to you!

> >I have not checked the brake pads and shoes yet. Normal braking seems >to work well, but I see from the service records that the brake pads >were changed often.

I'm with David on this: big heavy van = frequent brake pad changes. OTOH, I generally get ~40K miles to the set (langsam und deutlich, David)

>Are replacement brake pads from a local auto parts store good enough, or >should I be ordering them from a VW specific house? (I was going to >order a set from RMMW but they were out of stock.)

I tend to get mine at the local (independent, import-only) auto parts store (fyi, FLAPS = Friendly Local Auto Parts Store), or J.C. Whitney.

> >Exhaust: > >The line leading to the EGR filter has been crimped off at the exhaust >elbow. The local VW guru said that this is really common around here.

And most everywhere else in this great US of A. (Don't be so shy, David) I put a piece of aluminum (from a coke can) between the EGR and the long tube and another at the muffler using the original gaskets.

REQUEST FOR OPINIONS: despite having sealed off the EGR valve, I am in some doubt as to whether I should have done so. The theories in my mind are:

1) The filter is not present. Therefore leaving the EGR open creates a potential vacuum leak after the flap valve and may cause the engine to run too lean.

2) the flap valve expects exhaust gas (air) to come in thru the EGR valve when the throttle is open, and compensates by enriching the mix. Sealing the EGR makes the mix at the cylinders too rich.

I would rather a "too rich" rather than "too lean" condition. Thus I have sealed the EGR valve. Other opinions are, however, would be appreciated.

>Does this affect engine performance at all?

Not that I have noticed.

> I imagine that I would have to fix this were I ever to move to >California (and it seems like the right thing to do anyhow).

No opinion. I just don't know.

>I was surprised that RMMW did not have any EGR related items (the pipe, >the filter, etc.). Are these items available? This is not a California >model (no catalytic converter).

Don't be. By law, only the original manufacturer is allowed to sell these parts. Damn them. (Sorry, real strong feelings here on this issue)

>Besides paying the impact fee, should I expect any difficulty bringing >this bus to the golden state?

?????? (never lived there)

>Valve cover gasket: > >John Muir says to glue a new valve cover gasket to the valve cover >with "a fast drying glue." What should I use for this?

I'm with David on this. Permatex, only way to go. (I use the weak stuff, forget which color)(Think it's the blue, but look at the torque rating on the tube before you buy).

>VW Parts Houses: > >I have RMMW and a WC Metric catalogs. I have heard that J. C. Whitney >is a good source for VW parts. How do I get their catalog?

Well, I am probably the only person on the list who will admit out loud to using J.C. Whitley, but it's true, I have, and I probably will again. (but I don't inhale). To get their catalog, call (312) 431-6102. Their quality is iffy, but their prices are good.

Good Luck, Steve Dolan Alexandria, VA

hybrid '73 Westy


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