Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 15:04:32 -0500
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: "R.D. Robertson" <rdr@arn.net>
Subject: Re: Hydrolic lifters- 81'
>Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 22:04:20 +0000
>From: "Charles F. Webb" <cwebb@teleplex.net>
>To: "To: Multiple recipients of list" <vanagon@lenti>
>Subject: Hydrolic lifters- 81'
>Message-ID: <199605100203.WAA25500@teleplex.net>
>I finally got all my parts in and put the motor back in (including
>new pilot bearing) and can't get the lifters to prime. I went thru
>the procedure in the Bently on the initial settings, but they still
>won't quiet down. Any ideas or tricks? I've got 20W50 in, is it too
>thick? Help I've already missed the best spring camping.
>Thanks
>Charles F. Webb
>http://www.teleplex.net/cwebb
>Freedom Weekend Aloft- Memorial Day Weekend
>http://www.teleplex.net/fwa
>'81 Westy '70 Westy (yardbus)
>864-439-1847
>Duncan, SC
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reply seperator
I got the following fax from Mark Stephens High Performance (who rebuilt
my '79 bus' 2.0 liter, hydraulic-valve longblock:
Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters
Unlike American car hydraulic lifters, VW lifters cannot always be
adjusted to any specific number of turns in from zero lash.
If a "noisy lifter" problem develops and does not go away soon after
starting, follow this procedure exactly:
Rotate engine to TDC on the cylinder you want to adjust. Back adjusters
off until there is an air gap between adjusting screw and valve stem.
Approximately .006" is sufficient. You should be able to see and feel
this gap. This is important. Tighten lock nut and rotate to next
cylinder. Follow the procedure until all valves have an air gap.
Install valve covers and start engine. Run at 2,000 RPMs to 2,500 RPMs
for about five minutes, or until engine is at operating temperature.
Turn off engine and remove valve covers.
Rotate engine to TDC on the cylinder you want to adjust. Wedge
screwdriver between adjusting screw and valve stem by twisting
screwdriver. You will be able to tell if any air is left in lifter. If
lifter moves or feels spongy, go on to the next valve. If no movement
is felt and lifter feels solid, adjust as follows:
Loosen lock nut, turn adjuster in to zero clearance, which is just when
resistance is felt on the adjusting screw. IMPORTANT! Watch the valve.
As you turn the adjusting screw in, the valve should start to move in,
which opens the valve. Usually one-half to one turn is enough. If
valve started to open at 1/2 turn, stop and tighten lock nut.
Turning in any more may cause valve not to close completely. If more
than one turn is needed to move valve, there is still air in the lifter.
If so, back off to the original air gap.
Go through all cylinders and adjust all valves that feel solid. Leave
"spongy" lifters with air gap. Install valve covers and run engine
until all air is pumped from lifters. Repeat adjusting procedure until
all valves are solid.
Revving engine is okay. Follow this procedure exactly and be patient.
If all the air is not out of the lifter, it will always be noisy. If
rough idle occurs after adjustment and will not smooth out, check for
tight valve. Some lifters will not bleed down if turned in too far.
note: The above procedure is for adjusting the valves on a Mark
Stephens rebuild. They use a non-VW hydraulic cam. VW calls for two
full turns in after valve stem and adjuster make contact, engine stone
cold.
RDR