Date:         Mon, 27 May 1996 10:51:22 -0500
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         walshp@h1l6xa.nawc-ad-indy.navy.mil (Pat Walsh)
Subject:      Re: many questions about the westy..

<I'm responding to several of your questions, all in one message to reduce
 the number of overall list posts.  Pat>

David Raistrick <xi8940@freenet.tlh.fl.us> writes:
> first, in re: to the bus burnings, and fuel line problems, is the oddly 
> riged fuel lines on this thing. i got the carb <2 barrel proggressive> 
> yesterday morning, so today i started working on it. it seems that a PO 
> had already 'verted it to carberation. anyway, the fule lines run as follows:
> two lines off tank <normal for FI, right?> one going directly to engine 
> compartment, the other running across bottom of bus to driver side, 
> attatched to a "thing" looks like it may be a fuel pump, has wires 
> dangleing from it. from there, it runs into what i KNOW is a fule pump. 
> it is <now> connected and running. from there, the line runs into 
> compartment and attaches to the other <!> fuel line. from there, they go, 
> i assume, to the carb. so, anyway, if i rip all this out, should i block 
> the return line <i asume that is what it is..> at the tank? or should i 
> leave it combined? <i DO know i will rerun all the hardened old rotted 
> lines..no fire here!> and what bout that "item"? what is it? it doesnt 
> impead fuel flow, 'cause i pumped all the old gas outta the tank <didnt 
> even want to think about running that trash through the engine!> i will 
> use my new fule pump bought for this purpose..and the fuel lines..are 
> they 1/4" or 3/8"? it seems that there is quite a combination of this 
> running in this bus.. which should i use?
I agree with Dworkin that the unconnected pump under the bus is probably
for a gas heater, and that someone knowledgeable in these should deal
with it.  As for the weird hose routing, there should be two lines coming
off a FI gas tank, one going to the driver's side where the fuel pump is,
and the return line coming from the pressure regulator on the passenger
side.  For carburetion you only need one.  Remove the line going to the FI
pressure regulator and the regulator itself.  Block the nipple from the tank
with a cap that is rated for gasoline, or a 2" piece of fuel line clamped
over the nipple and plugged with a bolt at the other end.

> i pulled the plug on the old oil, <surprise! one bolt, and the strainer 
> falls in my hand!!:)> but i have heard rumer that these engines have a 
> "real" oild filter <found a new german one in the van wheni got 
> it!>..where is it?
Driver's side rear.

> and, these baby's hold 2.5 qt's, right? or did they 
> increase capacity on these motors?
Don't know offhand.  It should be in Bentley or Haynes.  If you are going
to be doing much work on the bus, you really need to get one or both.  The
Haynes is about $12 in FLAPS; you can mail order the Bentley from various
sources.

> and the other problem...
> i went to change the plugs, <boshe supers to install>, and stick the 
> wrench <sparckplug socket, 3 inch extension, and ratchet> in engine 
> compart ment, and guid e the socket down the hole in the tin for #2. not 
> sure where exactly the plug is under there,i pull wrench back out. well, 
> the socket falls off the extension. i stare dumnfoundedly at the hole in 
> the engine tin for a few moments before sticking my fingers down there. 
> nothing. i can feel the plug, and the head, but cannot find the socket in 
> reach. i crawl inder bus and explore hoping to find somewhere i can fit 
> my ahdn around..<yeh right..> well, the socket is still there,. how do i 
> get that peice of tin off? i cannot find my majic magnet ona stick, so 
> that is not an option..ideas?
Bentley and Haynes covers tin removal.

> oh..and the rear engine hatch.
> 
> how do i get it to close?!?!? the latch appears to work ok, and the 
> stickerplate appears at proper angle, but they do not connect..ideas?
I think you're on your own on this one.  You've identified the two
components.  Maybe the striker plate needs to move rearward.  Or maybe
someone replaced it with the wrong one?  Kind of far fetched.  Try to
look at one in a junkyard.

> oh yeah, the brakes, they have a vacum booster, right? where is the 
> connection to this? and when i press brake pedal, i hear a sucking 
> sound..oi presume this is normal for it not having the vaume line hooked 
> up at engine..
The vacuum line goes between the fitting on the rear of the booster to
a fitting on the intake manifold, one you may not have (but could install)
if you have an aftermarket manifold.  There should be a small black and
white valve inline in the hose, allowing air to flow only in the direction
of the manifold.  If you are replacing the hose, use only hose for that
purpose.  Heater hose is unreinforced and can collapse.  Shops that
specialize in brake systems (ie, rebuilding master cylinders and boosters)
will know what you are talking about and fix you up.

> looking down from top of engine, there is this little gadget to pass side 
> of engine at front. it has large <vacume line size> nipple on top, and 
> fuel line size nipple on rear side. what is this?
Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator from the FI system.

> first and formost: how do i change out the ignition switch? just the 
> electrical end..'cause PO burned it up, and i dont wanna have to run 
> little switches..
It's long and tiresome but covered in the manuals that I'm sure you're
going to rush out and buy once the stores open again.  :-)

> and, while removing the old fule line system, i noticed that off the main 
> line there was a smaller <around 1/8" I.D.> line sprouting off and going 
> to yet another fuel pump. this line then headed for the big contraption 
> that the heater boxes seem to should be conected to. all kinds of lovel 
> wires all round too..
Almost certainly a gas heater.

> anyway, the floor is not TO bad..just a little rough around the edges, as 
> in, all the rust is there. should i just cut away the rust and 'glass it 
> in, or would it be best to pay someone to weld something in?
I would have it welded.  As it's the floor, they shouldn't charge too much
since they won't have to spend all the time prettying it up since it will
be covered with the wood.  Once it's patched up, spray the whole (rear,
anyway) floor with that undercoating in a can, then put the wood back
down.

Pat Walsh, '71 Westy, walshp@camry.nawc-ad-indy.navy.mil