Date:         Fri, 17 May 1996 11:59:34 -0400
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         dworkin@ari.net (H Steven Dolan)
Subject:      76 Type II valve & "O" ring answers and questions

Bill Crick wrote:
>Volks: My Haynes Manual says to adjust the valves, on my van, the wheels need
>      to be removed. Is this true? I'd rather not if it isn't needed, 

I have never had to remove the tire.  The adjustment procedure is goes just
like a bug.  The only caution is that the bail *must* be flipped in the
correct direction. If you flip it the wrong way, the cover won't come off
and the bail is a bear to get back on.  I am 90% sure the correct direction
is up, but it has been too long. Am I right on this?

>   Second question will I need any special tools above Open/box wrenches,
>  feelers, srewdrviers etc? If so what?

Well, you might have on hand a new gasket, and this is a perfect time to
replace any leaky pushrod tube seals. Also, this is a good time to clean up
any leaky pushrods (see below)


Tobin wrote:
>I splurged and spent the big $$$ for the official VW seals.  Dunno if 
>this helps, but it's done.  The seals came in two different colours: 
>muddy brown and brick red/orange.  Both seals appear to have exactly the 
>same dimensions, but the brown seals appear to be slightly more dense.  
>Why the difference? 

If they are truly the same size, then you have a little problem.  Each
pushrod has a small ring on the end that goes in the block and a big ring
that goes on the end in the head.  Different colors indicate different
materials.  Alas, I don't know the color code.  I agree with John that the
Viton seals seem to last longer, but more important than seal material is
clean seats.  If you take a little mirror and a flashlight under the bus
with you and look into the block, you will probably see a "false seat" of
engine crap has built up.  Remove this crap and your seal will last lots longer.


Questions:  
Before answering the valve adjustment question, I took a look in my Bentley
and saw that the valve spec for FI engines is .15mm intake and exhaust.
(Chapter 5, Section 11.8)  My understanding always was that solid lifters
got the .15mm gap, but that the correct adjustment for hydraulic lifters was
"just touching".  ?????? Early Onset Alzheimers????Flashback????Have I been
doing it wrong all these years????
                           Steven Dolan
                           Alexandrian, VA

'73 FI'ed Westy