>I will certainly replace the clutch if needed so what do I look for to tell if >it is needed or not.
There are two "normal" places to check for wear in a VW clutch. One is visual and easy. The clutch disc is manufactured with small radial grooves in the wear material, making it easy to spot wear there. I don't know exactly how thick yours is, and how deep your grooves should be. But if you go to a VFLAPS (*Very* friendly local etc.) and look at a brand new one, you will see whatever differences there are to be seen. The other is a little more difficult to gauge. The Pressure plate has strong springs inside, that press the pressure plate against the clutch disc, holding it against the flywheel. When you step on the clutch pedal, it presses on the small, shiny ring and retracts those springs, lifting the pressure plate off the disc and letting the disc spin at different speeds from the engine. Put the pressure plate down on a piece of plywood on your garage floor, and step on the small shiny disk in the center (the one that faced away from the engine when it was installed). If you put a LOT of weight on it, like 150 pounds or more, you should feel it go down as those springs flex. If it's old and getting weak, it will be easier to press down. Again, difficult to gauge exactly how much is "enough". While at that same VFLAPS, step on a brand-new one to compare. If, of course, the proprietor doesn't mind your stomping on a brand-new, expensive item. Even if you feel a difference in the amount of pressure it takes to flex the springs, it's hard to say how much difference it takes to make a decision. Personally, I say that if you feel ANY difference, or see any noticable wear in the disc, then go ahead and replace the entire clutch: Pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. And take off the flywheel and bring it to a machine shop for resurfacing-- your new clutch will be smooth as silk if you do this. If you don't, it may chatter whenever you let up the clutch pedal, announcing to all the world that you're a lazy cheapskate (resurfacing costs around $25 here). When a shop replaces your clutch, most of their charges are for labor in removing and replacing the engine. Since you already have your engine out, do yourself a favor and replace the clutch-- one less thing to worry about for the next 40,000+ miles IMHO. I replaced the V6anagon's clutch twice here :-( and was able to get all four parts for $115 each time-- Sachs brand, good German parts. Despite the oddball engine, it still takes a stock '80 Vanagon clutch. Don't know if your clutch is identical to an '80 or not, but call around a LOT before you buy-- prices vary incredibly. I found a range of $115 to over $300 for the exact same (German) parts. I got my parts from World Parts Depot, (619) 275-4240. Hope this helps. _______ /\ o o o\ Steve Maher smaher@gi.com 75461,1717 /o \ o o o\_______ San Diego, California < >------> o /| \ o/ o /_____/o| '80 VW V6anagon \/______/ |oo| '66 Mustang Coupevertible | o |o/ '89 Son Sherwin |_______|/ http://www.wp.com/IrishMafia
|
Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of
Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection
will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!
Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com
The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.
Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.