Date:         Mon, 17 Jun 96 11:17:26 CDT
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Chris Venema <CVENEMA@uafsysa.uark.edu>
Subject:      Re: The adventure of the THROWN ROD


 Hi Everybody.. Thanks for that followup on the clicking rod and piston
problem (by DWORKIN@VILLAGE.ORG) I am quite sure I have that problem also,
so I will take note,  and proceed to do a rod/piston/ring repair on the '71.
I am somewhat of a minimalist when it comes to repair, so I would
consider salvaging at least the crankshaft if possible.  Get it measured
with a micrometer, and if it's within specs you could either get some
new rod bearings or have it ground and get some oversize rodbearings.
Then if there's too much sideplay you are probably right about replacement.
Also, clean the oil cooler out;  a car wash will do wonders on it.  I've
never had to chuck any oil coolers. Just be sure the cooling fins aren't
mashed up too much.  About the case.. There's no reason to change cases
unless the endplay (thrust bearing seat) is out so far that the case is
getting too  thin next to the flywheel.  I have a couple of cases that
are cut/worn too far like that, and I am still waiting for someone to come
up with a cure. Any ideas out there?  I always hate to have the case cut,
but it is worth it if the bearing is at all loose in there.  You will need
oversized case bearings for that also. There was a post a couple of days
ago about welding cases, and this can be tricky.  I busted off part of the
bell housing on one trying to tap out that threaded insert on one side of
a 1600.  The guy had a terrible time welding it until an old VW mechanic told
him that you have to have a special welding rod made out of the same
material as the engine (Aluminum/Magnesium).  Without that welding rod
there could be quite a fireworks show :(   It CAN be done and it did work.
Of course that weld wasn't on a place that is rea ly stressed a lot,
but if there is decent weld penetration it should work elsewhere as well.
I put it together about 5 years ago and it still holds as solid as before.
Unfortunately that special rod costs about twice as much as a regular one,
and the welding guy wanted at least twice as much as usual to fix it.
I suggest you try to find one of those special (welding) rods yourself.
Aluminum is much easier to weld, and I believe that later bus engines
were all aluminum cases.  I've been able to get many thousand miles out
of a reworked case.  Check your cylinder (case) studs if the engine has ever
overheated, or is aging.  That's where I've been fouled up when rebuilding.
It's a particularly nasty problem when you get the whole engine together,
proceed to torque the heads down, and hear kind of a hollow *POP*! AARRGGHH!!
That can be remedied by some case saver inserts if you wanna be thorough.
Of course the engine must be completely disassembled to install them. AARGH!!

Chris Venema
'69 Westy Hardtop,'71 Westy Poptop, and assorted Bugs