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Date:         Thu, 6 Jun 1996 11:08:15 -0300 (ADT)
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         smitht@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Tim Smith)
Subject:      [vanagon]  Westy DIY conversion

OK, it's time for decapitation. After 7 months of driving around with a complete Westy top held on with 4 sheet metal screws and a cinch strap I've started the proper installation. Err... make that two sheet metal screws a cinch strap, after closer examination, musta lost two. Good thing the pop-top fits well and is heavy.

1) Roof rack: Done 7 months ago, probably why I didn't go topless on the road! I sliced the headliner about 4" rear of the front roof beam, leaving enough to tuck up and finish the roof cutout with. The rear bolt holes need to be drilled and bolts dropped through. Slicing the headliner lets you do this. You may be able to peel back from windshield, but why since the cutout is inevitable. Goop them watertight when finished. Use the rack for the drill guides. The front anchors take some fiddling, I put double sided tape on the bottom of them, bolted the VERY loosely to the rack and carefull set the rack down on the roof. If happy the take out the bolts and lift off the rack, hopefully the anchor brackets have stuck to the roof in the right position. Drill through. I peeled back headliner above windshield for access. Remove sunvisors. Went back together fine.

2) Rear hinges: easy to do! I took two 12"x1"x3/16" steel bars and drilled/tapped three 8mm holes in each, at the spacing of the hinge 'foot' on the lid. This was then painted and a layer of bicycle tube rubber contact cemented over it. This give a bit of cushioning and fills gaps between slightly curved roof and flat bar. I also used a grinder to radius the top side edges of the bar to avoid crunching sharp corners into the roof. This was done prior to rubber layer! DO NOT use thicker steel for the bar, there is not enough room to slip it in between roof panel and inner roof 'frame'. 3/16" also bends enough into the roof contour, 1/4" wouldn't. Fitting them into the roof required stripping down the headliner and hatch rubber about 8", until I could get some access. Remove rear speakers or whatever. By putting a bolt 'upside down' into the forward threaded hole I was able to guide the bar into and over to the rearmost 7/16" hole drilled in the roof. Get the measurements for these holes from the donor Westy after you pull the roof. And drill all six holes before you lift up the roof!! Measure 5 times, drill once!! A bolt+washer went through the hinge foot and roof and into threaded plate. Once it's captured from outside remove the other inside bolt and swivel the plate into position under the other holes, then bolt down. Do the other side :). The 7/16" roof holes plus the slots in the hinge foot allow for some adjustment of closure into the roof rack. Not a lot! Get the overlap correct/aligned, then goop the bolts well ONE AT A TIME! That inside rubber layer is also a seal, but don't take the chance that it will leak. Headliner easy to refit, just don't tear or stretch it too much.

3) canvas anchor strip: I installed this without canvas first. Lay the pieces on the roof and hold down with duct tape. It sits about 1" up from the ends of the roof 'beams' stamped in the roof panel, you'll see. Use the aluminium strip as a drill guide. I did front strip first, then positioned rear strip and sides. Drill and screw as you go, take your time. Drill size was 3/32" for the ten trillion little screws. I haven't installed the canvas yet, need some putty to seal up near side of each roof beam. This was also quite easy, but measure/tape down well and check while you go.

This is progress to date, the roof was held fully open with a 2"x4" and big 2x6 on roof to spread the load.

Next: Lifter bar/front hinge. This will be a pain! It doesn't fit unless the roof cutout is done EXACTLY as the factory Westy. I am planning on doing this but need to cut roof, fold down edges and attach a reinforcing beam around the perimeter. Yah, right :(. I have to measure up a friends Westy to make this work. The front hold-down latch bolts through the roof with 4 holes. I need to double up the roof with a backer plate in that area, simple enough. Bed will be fun too. Factory Westy roof is cutout/stamped to rear hatch almost and bedboard forms inner roof. I am only cutting back to middle roof beam. My rear 1/3 headliner stays intact, while the standing area is same as factory. Consequently the rear portion of the bed is sitting about 5" higher than it normally would. Front folding part however will be at 'factory' height like front hinge. Much thought/futzing required here, especially since the bed hinging won't work/clear the poptop. Will post as I go.

On the plus side, just found a 38"x24" escape hatch from an RV. Tinted and tempered glass, black aluminium frame. Needs the escape latches converting to pop/lock type, but gets me a huge sunroof that opens/removes, "On Safari" style. My poptop didn't have the roof vent, cheapo's are $40+tx (@ Delta-6 $395US!!) and the hatch is $75 (used, no tx.) so a great deal. Need a flyscreen/shade too. Later folks, Tim.

Tim Smith '87 Syncro 'Wasted'


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