Date:         Tue, 11 Jun 1996 09:18:38 +0000
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         jgindhart@ucsd.edu (Joe Gindhart)
Subject:      thanks, update, and more questions

I apologize if this message is duplicated; I have been getting some weird
server messages.

I would like to thank all of you who helped with my engine cooling
questions. I have a '66 Kombi with a 1600 AH-series beetle motor. It took
me a while to realize that J-tubes and a merged exhaust (which I have) are
incompatible with heater boxes (which I don't have, but thought that I
needed). I took someone's advice and degreased my engine and tin, installed
the front and side engine compartment air seals, plugged my fan shroud
fresh air holes, and sealed the holes in the rear engine tin. After a
couple of weekends and a can of orange hand cleaner, the engine seems to
run cooler by the Muir dipstick test, as I can hold my hand on the dipstick
after a 15 minute run on the freeway at approximately 60 mph (I still have
to fix my speedo). I am now seeking advice on the following issues:

1) Squeaky distributor. My engine squeaks. It usually does it the first
five minutes or so of driving. It is more noticable at idle. I thought it
could be the generator, but I disconnected the generator pulley and the
squeaking persisted. I put my head in the engine when it was running, and
it seemed to be coming from the distributor. How should I fix this?

2) Hard starting of warm engine. My engine starts up easily when it is
cold, but it doesn't after driving it. It revs 10-12 times, then finally
kicks over. I don't know if this is related, but it idles poorly when cold,
but well when warm.

3) Carburetor pre-heat hose. The PO connected an air hose from a hole on
the upper right of the fan shroud to a hole under the air intake of the air
cleaner (stock oil air cleaner). I didn't think anything of it until I saw
a picture in the RMMW catalog of a carburetor pre-heat hose running from a
hole in the rear engine tin to the air cleaner. Which way is correct? Would
introducing heated air into the carburetor from underneath the rear engine
tin help my cold engine idling problems?

4) Replacing vent window lock. I want to replace my vent window lock on the
passenger side door. The base of the broken lock is still there. How should
I remove the old lock and install the new one without breaking the window
or permanently bending the frame?

The inside restoration is nearing completion (is it ever complete?). I
decided to use 1/8" plywood for the interior panels and headliner, and
finished it with spar varnish. The only original seat was the middle bench
seat, so I headed to the friendly local junkyard (FLOJ?) to get a rear
bench seat (from a '71) and two front seats (from a '72). They look similar
to the original seats, and were a lot more reasonably priced. The driver's
side seat frame is pretty much compatible with the mounting bracket on the
'66, but the passenger side was not, as the seat platform in the '66 is
much more inwardly tilted than in the '72. I had to shim the inside of the
seat platform about 2" to get the seat to sit level. I used the seat
mounting bracket from a Hyundai, but I'm sure that any small mounting
bracket would do. The current color scheme is red interior, natural wood,
black seats, and tan berber carpet, which, IMHO, looks better than it
sounds. I guess it's time to start doing some bodywork. There's almost no
rust, but lots of dents.

Thanks in advance,

Joe Gindhart
'66 Kombi
San Diego, CA