Date:         Fri, 17 May 1996 12:54:18 -0700
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         jwakefield@4dmg.net (john wakefield)
Subject:      Re: '83 H2O head gasket advice needed (long)

Tony,

  Sorry you're having cooling system difficulties and sorry I haven't 
gotten back to you on your private note's question.  I have reasons but 
no excuse.  The reasons relate to the recent stock market behavior and my 
Westie dashboard/blower fan removal and restoration and since it's out, 
now installation of complete Alpine CD radio with external Alpine amp and 
all the expected down-stream components.  I'm burried.
  I just read your newest note.  Now I expect everyone is going to tell 
you that any combustion gas leakage into your coolant is an immediate 
tear-down and renewal indicator.  Sadly, that's almost true.  Sometimes 
they stabilize and don't get worse for a long time.  I know of a Datsun 
(notice that I didn't say Nisson, so I'm getting back a few years) which 
had the head gasket leaking slowly into the coolant, and it was driven 
for five years after the innitial observation and head bolt 
retorquing during which time it eventually quit leaking.  So it's 
possible to have it go either way, but that one was atypical and not 
directly representaive, though I think it had an aluminum head.  A hugely 
important difference was that this Datsun's highest internal location 
within the cooling system was at the radiator cap.  The Vanagon is about 
the worst in this regard I've ever seen, or at least as I write this, I 
can think of others like it but none worse.  So the effect on you, the 
owner driver is made greatly worse by this Vanagon design.  A traditional 
top of radiator fill and overflow tank design would have eliminated all 
of this, but VW made different elections.  They improved the flow and 
lowered switch temperatures on later Vanagons, but these changes must 
have been done for cosmetic reasons rather than as responses to earlier 
design errors.  They never did address the low fill point issue and its 
attendent effects. Several vehicles I've encountered have front mounted 
radiators with easy access to their nearby fill/reserve expansion tanks. 
  Ok, so I put in above a weasel word - "almost."  So you may be able to 
keep driving this thing for a bit even with a minor leak of combution gas 
into its coolant.  One thing that almost certainly will help is altering 
your wiring to ensure that the radiatior fan comes on much earlier than 
it's original fine design causes.  VW has corrective radiator mounted 
thermostats to switch the low and high speed fan circuits on at lower 
temps according to some list notes.  I'm not sure I'd even bother 
checking there, as their prices are generally out of line with the rest 
of the world, and some competitive auto parts stores list and can order 
lower temp switches.  I may do that too.  Mean while, if you just run a 
wire pair from each of the radiator mounted thermostat fan control 
switches inside to a dash mounted manual switch, you can remove all doubt 
about when it comes on.  The difference in mine was like night and day!  
Tow heavy loads?  It's now possible by switching the radiator fan on high 
immediately.  Your leak almost certainly will have to be repaired 
eventually, but this simple switch measure just may give to you some time 
to decide on your best course.  That $1000 figure you quoted can be 
reduced to a much lower level.  Hell, for less than that you can pick up 
a whole used engine if you have some classifies scanning time, which I'm 
trying to give to you.
  Now, let us assume you have the two pairs of wires soldered neatly into 
the wiring that plugs into the two radiator mounted thermostat switchces, 
and that they extend inside.  Each of these pairs has one "hot" 12 volt 
lead.  Please attach each of these to a middle terminal of a three 
position double pull double throw switch, one going to each side of the 
switch.  Next, the other two leads should be attached to opposite corners 
of the remaining four terminals, keeping each lead on the same switch 
side as its corresponding hot lead.  Don't worry about which two you 
leave unconnected of the 6 terminals on the double pull double pull 
switch.  When this switch is in the center position (off), only the stock 
system controls the radiator fan.  But when you flick your new switch to 
one direction, you'll hear your fan come on low, and at the other end, 
the high speed is called on, even with the ignition switch removed. So 
don't turn your motor off and leave with it switched on, or you'll be 
loading your battery.  You have direct control, just as you do with your 
head lamps.
  Just a few notes.  In case you don't have a VTOM (meter), a simple test 
light will tell you which of the leads of each pair is hot.  Clip the 
aligator clamp to a good ground, and touch the other end to each lead.  
The two that light the bulb go to the center switch terminals.  I 
considered joining these hot leads, but VW didn't up front and my Bentley 
just covers just up to 1984 Vanagons, so they may have done something 
trick with relays that joining them could screw up.  So to be extra 
prudent, I decided to preserve their eletrically individual status.  
That's why I specified double pull double throw, which is two switches in 
one package.
Finally, do a tidy installation.  Unsightly installs are a road to pride 
loss in vehicle owners, and the effects are ultimately more difficult 
than a head leak.  Another of my questionable opinions.
  The ph change radiator colorant test for combustion gas intrusion is 
pretty definative.  Second opinions aren't required.  Sorry.  Unless you 
have some wierd additive, if it shows a leak, you have a leak.  It's been 
around for long enough for patents to expire so competing brands are 
sold. 
  Hope this gives you some time to plot your least cost high benefit 
corrective course.  Even with no leak, having the manual override 
installed is a definite improvement and is equivelant to the extra 
forward control positions on an automatic transmission.  Most driving 
does not require them.
  Finally, since I've decided to risk flames and personal attack by 
posting this to the list rather than privately, I'd like to thank Ron 
Soloman for being there when I wanted a used early Bentley shop manual. 
The photos have much better gray scaling than the current issue Bentley, 
and it has what I want for my '83 diesel without lots of other material I 
would need to filter out of consideration.  I recognize that anyone who 
makes a second market in used VW stuff likely affects available supply 
positively and prices negatively.  I'm glad salvage yards exist, and I'm 
glad non-professionals like Ron pick-up yard sale etc. VW parts for 
potential resale when they don't personally need them rather than let 
them quietly disappear from availablity.  They lessened my already 
ridiculouly small chance of picking up a used Bentley or specifically 
needed VW part by their actions, but they hugely increased my chances of 
actually ever being able to fine one.  I recognize that it's a mixed 
issue, but I'm a free market advocate and feel the net effect is 
unquestionably positive in my life.  Thanks to all who perform that 
function IN AN HONEST WAY, and in my experience, that definately includes 
Ron.  I'll not address this issue again on this list.

	Best Wishes,
	John Wakefield