Date:         Wed, 30 Oct 1996 02:06:23 -0400 (AST)
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         smitht@unb.ca (Tim Smith)
Subject:      Re: Vanagon heater fan

>Does anyone have experience replacing the front heater fan in a vanagon.

yup doing #3 right now :(.  The erratic fan will start blowing fuses, and
may fry your switch. It also causes the big resistor to heat more as the
entire system draws over 16 amps when the fuse goes.  Normal on '3' is 13
amps, not a lot of room.  With switch on '1' or '2' and a jammmed motor the
extra current heats up the resistor and will melt the airbox.  Only seen
this happen on one so far, my '87, but also on 2 Rabbits.

        Get a 'new' identical blower unit from 78-84? Rabbits/Jettas, easy
to take out in under 5 minutes, need a 10mm socket and Phillips head
screwdriver.  Cost me $17 vs. dealers $260+taxes.  From hood you need to
remove leaf screen and 4 bolts, and you may be able to wriggle the fan clear
of its airbox and out towards passengers side.  If not then there are
screw(s) underneath dash that hold the airbox up to underside of dash,
remove them and the unit drops enough to get out the fan.

        If you can test several I've found that some draw lots of current
and blast like a garden leaf blower.  Others are way less draw and still
pump out tons of air.  As gauged by the spark from the booster cables used
to spin them at the junkyard, highly scientific. It seemed to be newer
replacement units that were lower demand (and quieter).  This takes a load
off the wires/switch. I've found both AEG and Bosch labelled units, both
with identical VW part #, so I don't know why the variation in draw/output.

        Sorry to tell you.... Pull the dash, no other solutions.  Simple
re/re will take 4 hrs to do the job.  Good time to cleanup any rust that may
be happening due to windshield leaks, fix/lube broken heater cables, wiper
mechanism, old wiring.... can always make work. 

        Your airbox may be held together with a bunch of metal clips along
the edges, which can be popped off with the airbox unbolted/moved rearward
with heater hoses intact.  If not then unclamp heater hoses and take the box
out to crack it.  Go slowly, using two flat blade screwdrivers. Wedge one in
and twist gently,  then use the other right next to the lugs (you'll see) to
get the seam glue to pop. work slowly, the glue will crack neatly.  If you
go too fast the plastic snaps first.  You should reseal the airbox with
silicone during reassembly, and add the metal clips or glue it.  1st '85 I
did was glued and clipped, 2nd was clipped only, with two heat fused lugs at
bottom centre, the '87 was glued and fused also.  You will need a wood
chisel for the fused lugs BUT go easy as the heater core is right behind the
lugs!!!!! BTDT (just bent some fins)  I washed out the airbox with soapy
water, and replaced the foam rubber around the heater core, do what you
need. Reconnect wires and check function BEFORE resealing airbox!

        You can remove all this stuff with the battery connected. Foolish if
you crimp a hot wire, I know, but I didn't want to have to reprogram the
radio whose code the DPO/dealer never provided.  I got things ready with
radio loose but still powered, then quickly unplugged, shifted the wire and
radio out from the dash then plugged in again.  I suspect the frigging
things code protection doesn't work, or it has some battery/capacitor
backup, but it still works fine after a 15 sec disconnect.

Before you install the replacement unit oil it with sewing machine oil a
couple of times, letting it soak in.  To oil the bearing hidden under the
fan I drilled a tiny hole near the hub and used the plastic tube from a WD40
tin to squirt the oil down blindly into the right area. Spins evenly with
light finger pressure, coasts briefly. Check the lengths of the brushes to
figure out how used the thing is, when new they sit slightly above the edge
of their housing. Try rocking the fan side to side to check for looseness,
should be none. My fans have failed due to rustup and to bearing wear out.
on 2x '85 and an '87.  Hope this helps.

>If anyone wants to convert a dog automatic to manual, I did it with
>great success

YES YES YES!!  Just bought an '85 crewcab auto, fine vehicle except for the
trans (and heater fan). No hurry on this for me, out of $ and time this
winter. Maybe a detailed write-up to be put into Ron Lussiers FAQ webpage
would be possible?

bye, tim