Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (November 1996)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Sat, 16 Nov 1996 21:48:05 -0800
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         dfuller@jeeves.ucsd.edu
Subject:      re:Autobox flush/refill

Tim,

The short answer is that there is no way I know of to drain the torque converter that I know of without removing it- which means dropping out the transaxle to get to it. This is something I have done on a weekend, though I can't recommend it for routine preventative maintenance. I now change the ATF every other oil change (about 2.5 qts), which should keep fairly fresh fluid in the system (by dilution) without draining the torque converter.

I started doing this after the auto trans on our '90 Carat failed at 63K miles. After three rebuilds at home, I finally figured out that the endplay was adjusted incorrectly from the factory- one of the rings on the trans.oil pump kept undercutting and eventually breaking. I finally ignored the Bentley figure for endplay and bought a shim from VW dealer equal to the amount of undercutting. The shim cost .79 while the dealer wanted $900 just to diagnose the problem, with assurances that it would cost $3500 to fix. At those prices I figured I had nothing to lose trying it myself at home- at the worst I would have it towed to a tranny shop with the transmission in a box in the back. Turned out that it wasn't that difficult. I can now pull the tranny out , tear it down, put it back together again and into the van in the dark without a Bentley in under 3 hrs! The last rebuild was about 50K miles ago, no signs of trouble. I swapped torque converters on the last one though- catastrophic failure/blown clutch packet filled the system with metal particles. I wish now I had kept the old TC and had it flushed at a tranny shop (about $15) because the rebuilt I installed is of older design and engine runs about 200RPM faster at 65MPH.

The other recommendation I have is to drop a small magnet into the pan while you have it off. It collects all of the fine metallic particles from the fluid due to normal wear- looks like a caterpillar after 10K miles. It can't hurt.

I have never seen a bottle of ATF that says only Dexron. They are all labeled DexronIII/Mercon, which is what I use. What you want to avoid are the ones labeled only "ATF" or "Type F", which are NOT compatible. Here in San Diego, cold morning starts mean the high 40's, so I don't know about the synthetics. I'd go for the cheaper stuff and change it often.

Dan Fuller '90 Carat '63 Bug Ragtop '95 BMW 318i conv.


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.