Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 15:01:07 -0800
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Tonya Pope <galba@premier.net>
Subject: Re: 87 Help AGAIN
Ian--
It doesn't really smell bad when it doesn't work. If anything, it
smells a little like unburned fuel--but that isn't always the case. It
tries to backfire occasionally when it is acting up. I'm more than
willing to take the cat off if you could explain how--I just got it
inspected in October so I'd have 11 months to figure out how to put it
back on! There have been a couple comments from people that it could be
the culprit, however, the price the dealer quoted was completely
outrageous. I'd much rather try $10 sensors before I buy a new one!
Despite the long list of things that I've already replaced, everything
replaced DID look like they needed it--except the fuel pump.
It's so erratic it's frustrating. Yesterday it worked like a charm. I
had done NOTHING since my last post where it wouldn't go up and down
driveway. Today, I couldn't make it to the corner. It idled okay, but
surged and cut-out when I pressed the gas (incidentally--it was quite
cold both days--at least for Louisiana--around 50 degrees).
I'm going over the wiring for the 3rd time now. When I get up the
nerve, Larry suggested cleaning between the rotor shaft and the disk
that contains the magnetic pickup, that there might be some varnish type
stuff causing it to stick. Tim suggested disconnecting and bypassing
the electronic idle stabilizer unit and thought I might check the air
bypass valve for cold starting. Pulling ideas from other peoples
similar problems--could it be throttle switch related? how about leaky
fuel injector? cold start sensor? (is that different than the coolant
temp sensor I've already replaced?--or does this control the valve that
Tim's talking about?)
I'm trying everything that is suggested--in order of my capabilities to
do it! Currently manual-less so I'm having to rely a lot on the
descriptions I'm given. Won't really be able to work on it until after
Thanksgiving. But I REALLY appreciate all the input!!!
I live outside of New Roads (upriver from BR, across the river from St.
Francisville, towards Marksville). Ian, if you're from Shreveport,
you've probably heard of it--but no one else on the list would have!
Anyway, there are only 3 places in BR that will even touch my vanagon.
I no longer will deal with 1, the dealer is way expensive (and a part
changer mostly), and the 3rd is just inexperienced with watercooled
(they do what they can, but it's not a lot).
Ian Webb wrote:
>
> Tonya, I'm no expert, but it sounds like a couple of things are going
> wrong to me. That little trick its doing after running for a while then
> quitting sounds like it might be a catalytic converter (and i've noticed
> at least one other list member suggest this). have you tried this? You
> could test that theory easily enough by removing it for a month or so.
> just a thought. I too replaced my coolant temp sensor thinking it would
> run better at startup, but it only runs marginally better, so I've go to
> do some more digging around. but I'd try to get rid of that cat.
> converter for a while and see how it runs. If its dead, so is the van.
> Does the exhaust smell real bad when its nice and hot?
>
> Also, where do you live? I'm originally from Shreveport. You keep
> running back and forth to Red Stick, so I was just wondering. (and I
> wouldn't think anyone in LA or MS or wherever you live would be able to
> tell you were motoring around without the cat. converter)
>
> ian
> 90 Westy
>
> Tonya Pope wrote:
> >
> > Hi again. Well, after 3 successfull trips, my vanagon decided to die
> > again. Apparently the coolant temp. sensor didn't do the trick.
> >
> > Latest: Yesterday after returning from Baton Rouge, van had been
> > running the roads for about 4 hours, it kinda acted up. Stopped at DMV
> > to turn in a license plate off Beetle, when I started the van back up,
> > it idled rough and didn't like me touching the gas. I put it into drive
> > and let it coast for about 10-15 yards. It then magically recovered and
> > operated normally all the way to the post office. When I got back in
> > the van and started it back up, it did it again, and again recovered
> > after I put it in drive and coasted 10-15 yards. This was with a warmed
> > up engine--guage had needle right over light where it normally is when
> > warm. Behaved perfectly after each of these little episodes.
> >
> > Today--Engine completely cold, start it up and it idles very rough.
> > Actually it sounds good for about 2 seconds with rpm at 1000, drops rpms
> > nearly dies chugs chugs chugs shakes rattles & rolls for 2-3 seconds,
> > back to smooth 100 rpm for 2 seconds, shake rattle & roll, smooth, etc.
> > Cycle continues until rpms drop too low and it kills. If I step on gas,
> > it will increase rpms then shake rattle & roll & die. Tried putting it
> > in gear and going up and down driveway to see if it would fix itself
> > like yesterday, but it wouldn't.
> >
> > List of what has already been done: NEW--temp. coolant sensor for FI,
> > O2 sensor, air intake sensor, air intake boot, ignition coil, rotor,
> > distributor cap, plug wires, vacuum lines, fuel pump, fuel filter, and
> > has the air intake sensor harness as per technical bulletin installed.
> > I've checked all the wiring twice already, but am going to do that again
> > as well.
> >
> > HELP!!!!!
> >
> > Thanks everyone,
> > Tonya
> > 87 Vanagon GL (sick again)
> > 74 S. Beetle (insuranceless, on the road to restoration)
>
> --
>
> Ian Webb, Assistant Director
> University of Virginia Roanoke Center
> Phone: (540) 857-7922
> Fax: (540) 857-7936
> ian_webb@virginia.edu
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