Tim; The notes I wrote in my book after i did this test on the gas gauge with a resistor decade box are as follows: Gauge reads full : input resistance=210 ohms Gauge reads empty: input resistance=35 ohms The 510 on their gauge corresponds to 340 ohms Good Luck Ken Lewis kdlewis@juno.com 86 VW crewcab 85 VW Vanagon GL 60 356 coupe On Tue, 17 Dec 1996 16:49:37 -0600 smitht@unb.ca (Tim Smith) writes: >OK, for you technoids out there... anyone got VW1301 tool, seems to be >a >variable resistor that you connect instead of the gauge you are >checking. >What I want to know is what are the resistance values (ohms) that this >thing >puts out at settings of: > > 50 - gas tank full / temp gauge at lower edge of red > 320 - gas tank empty > 510 - temp gauge at lower edge of white > >and any other settings that might be useful??? > >Now... why? because after sticking in a new temp (gauge) sender I get >the >same reading as the old when running AND yes the voltage stabilizer is >spot >on for output, at 10.5v, checked that first, then blew the $21+4tax on >a >sensor, grrrr... ?? Bad ground straps?? > >Final questions, > >1) voltage at battery is 14.5 when running, 12.5 when off. A-OK. >Voltage >at stabilizer is 13.5v running but floats +/- 0.5 volts when idling >(fine at >1500RPM). So why the floating? bad brushes? (belt fine/tight), out of >round >pulley? Gremlins? >2) the 1.0 volt drop is a pain, anyone run a new 'power' line to the >fuse >panel or somehow got rid of this drop. I don't want to just upgrade >the >headlamp wiring with a new feed, what about new feed to entire >dash/front >area?? Ideas? > >Thanks folks, bye, tim > >
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