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Date:         Mon, 2 Dec 1996 22:36:03 -0500
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Martin Jagersand <jag@cs.rochester.edu>
Subject:      Re: Freeze plug leaking coolant, what to do?

External sealing methods have failed so far. I can't figure out how to train the coolant below the freeze plug. The vanagon tilted engine mounting puts the freeze plug below the water pump attachement on the other ("tilted up") side of the block.

Result: Coolant keeps seeping out slowly and the epoxy won't stick (actually it sticks initially, beacuse seepage is so sloow so I can dry the surface and put on the epoxy, but after a while (20 min or so) water gets under it, and bubbles out through it. Could of course try a "5 min" epoxy, but the ones I've seen are not water or heat proof. PC 7 is waterproof and can take prolonged 180F temp.

Jeff, in your instructions for removing the heater, when you say "get something in behind", do you mean get something in between the heater and the block? How do I otherwise get behind? Also, do I risk dropping the "expanding thing behind" if I back out the screw too much? How much can I back it out? Sorry about this many questions, but I'd be in real trouble if I drop something into the block. One last question: When installing a block heater do you seal it in any way? Liquid gasket?

Thanks, Martin (and '82 Westy diesel (perhaps going to be christianed "Olga"))

X-Sender: jdiebolt@up.net X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Pro Version 2.2 (32) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 22:45:36 -0500 From: Jeff Diebolt <jdiebolt@up.net>

>If I drain the system, how do I (nondestructively) get the >block heater out? And what should I do to make it seal >better when I put it back in. This is probably not the answer you're looking for so try the external sealing methods first. To remove the heater, first loosen the screw in the center of the heater. Loosen it as far as you can, then tap on the heater a little bit to loosen it up from the block, it's usually only just stuck a little bit. Once you get it moving you have to get something in behind it to pry it out. This is why. When the heater is installed the screw is connected to a piece that spreads out past the hole in the block to hold it in, (like a dry wall anchor). This piece does not return to it's original smaller size so you have to pry out the heater which causes the retainer to bend back into place. Have never replaced a used heater, it wasn't worth the cost of a new one. Don't forget, if you do try it, to replace the seal on the screw also. Greetings from Michigan's Upper Peninsula Jeff & Jean-Marie Diebolt jdiebolt@up.net


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