Date:         Wed, 22 Jan 1997 14:41:20 +0000
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Brian Verbeek <verbeek@the-hague.stbv.slb.com> (by way of Brian Verbeek <verbeek@the-hague.stbv.slb.com>)
Subject:      Re: 1.6-l. '79-'82 type 2 aircooled pancake engine in Bug?

Hanno Spoelstra wrote:

>I am trying to find out if the 1.6-l. '79-'82 type 2 aircooled pancake
>engine can be fitted in my '71 Bug.

And:

>electronic ignition

This can be retro-fitted to any T1 engine, Bosch also makes nice 
socalled TZH electronic igntion Kits.

>Who can help me with engine codes (CT ?), useful tips, etc.?

The 1600 CT Transporter engine was used from 4-'79 to 12-'82, 85.5x69mm,
1584cc, dono its power output by heart, but around the 50 Din HP the 
stock 1600 upright engine provided.

Below a piece of text i copied from a message i wrote to a fellow listie
a while back, also, i've written about this motor before and i think you 
find that in the Vanagon@Lenti archives.

Brian.

******Begin included message******

Yes it is, but there are some problems too. A German enginebuilder said
the cases were not as good as the regular T1/T3 cases, he thought that
was proved by the fact that VW discontinued it after only a few years
of production. I, personally, think that that could be due to other 
reasons as well, it might not be a popular choice for Transporter/
Vanagon buyers, and, not to forget, VW came with it in '79, there was 
a little oil crisis then if i'm right, it didn't last very long and 
people were looking for more performance again. I can imagine that a 
1600 Transporter/Vanagon would be rather underpowered.

I have one of these cases, it's damaged beyond repair. The #1 main
has spun in the case. The filterboss is cast on at the rear OP relief 
area, at the rearmost of the left case half. It points to 8 o clock.
It has the same bore and stroke as the upright engines, the crank,
rods, P&Cs, valve covers, oilpump, fuel pump & distributor location
are identical. It has a hydraulic cam and lifters which slide in 
after the case is bolted together. I didn't get the pushrod tubes
with it but i think they are the same as Wasserboxer tubes,they are 
thicker on the case end. The fanshroud looks very much like the
T4 shroud, only it's made out of stamped steel, i didn't get the
cylinder covers. The cooler is mounted the same way as in T3s, but 
then on top of a 2.5" thick spacer, but, and this is one of the main 
problems, it's mountingholes are -behind- the usual location, if 
you look at the top of a T1 case, between the bellhousing and the 
distributor, you see it's divided by the case webbing (on which the 
upright fanshroud sits) into three almost equally sized partitions, 
now, we are used to having the oilcooler holes in the middle part, 
but this one has them moved one part to the rear, towards the 
distributor. This could be solved by using a DH cooler and adaptor 
in a non DH fanshroud and cutting the shroud were it has to fit 
over the cooler adaptor. Adjustments to the cooler location can 
easily be made by flattening the adaptor or by using pieces of the
spacer which comes with the Vanagon 1600. Under the cylinders there are
T3 cool tins (in fact, they can still be called T3 cool tins) but they
are clamped onto 8mm headstuds, while the older T3 ones used to mount 
on 10mm studs so the mounting tabs are different. (their PN starts with
either 070 or 171) The other main problem is that the case has four
cast on mounting ears for the rearmounted fanshroud, these have to 
be removed by either machining and a little remodelling or with a 
saw and lot of remodelling, that can be done, but there is not enough
meat to drill and tap for the two M6 bolts that are supposed to hold
the pulleytin. I also didn't get the flywheel, it removed itself 
or was removed from the crank in a horrifying way, the only thing 
left on the engine was the treaded part of the glandnut sticking
out of the crank...

I read the above over and forgot to mention that the oilcooler holes 
in the case aren't cut for regular cooler seals and i figured that
you -could- use a DH shroud if you'd use a DH adaptor along with the
2.5" spacer, the spacer would go right through the fanshroud, but
there's another problem with the cooler adaptor too, you have to use 
dual carbs as the cooler adaptor sits in the way of the stock manifold.

******End included message******