Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 18:11:02 -0800
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Lawrence Johnson <ljohnson@halhinet.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding, here I go again
Jeff Carver wrote:
>
> Well, with the posts earlier this week about DOT 3 versus DOT 4 brake
> fluid, I checked what I had been using. DOT 3 of course.
>
> Well, with my record intact and my sanity not, I shall venture forth
> this weekend to again bleed my brake system. We shall see if the
> advice from various listees shall penetrate my skull and result in a
> successful bleed job (of which I have had 100% failure). I have
> gotten used to spongy brakes over the years, obviously.
>
> And I just did the clutch, successfully too! Why I can do clutches
> and not brakes is a mystery. 100% success with clutches.
>
> Techniques this time:
> Tubing from nipple, with check valve in it, into jar.
> Crack nipple open and let gravity do it's thing.
> Keep an eye out for the level and flow the stuff for awhile.
> After building up a puddle in the jar, start pumping the pedal slowly.
> Keep doing it for a long time.
> Offer $ to 9 year old to pump pedal.
> Keep doing it for a longer time.
> Repeat on next nearest brake/clutch slave.
> Repeat until lots and lots of DOT 4 have been used.
>
> - Jeff
> '80 Westi
Here are some ideas that may help in getting the air out:
1) Start bleeding at the brake furthest from the reservoir (right rear)
2) Bleed at least two full reseroir amounts. The fluid should run clear.
3) Now bleed the next furthest brake from the reservoir (left rear).
Only bleed until the new fluid starts to flow i.e. clear and clean.
4) Bleed next furthest brake (right front). If you have double nipple
brakes, bleed the lower first until clear fluid flows then bleed the
upper.
5) Bleed the last brake (left front) lower and upper.
6) Now bleed the clutch until only clear fluid.
At all times keep the reservoir from running dry. Pump the brake/clutch
pedal down quickly but up slowly. Use only NEW (sealed) Dot 4. Have some
one working the nipple valve: don't count on the check valve.
Alternatively try using a vacuum extractor tank like those used to suck
up crank case oil.
It works for me,
Larry
'86 Syncro Westy
'91 Toyota MR2 Turbo
'86 Subaru
'80 Saab 99 GL
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