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Date:         Tue, 14 Jan 97 18:50:40 -0800
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         vince_pappalardo@om.cv.hp.com
Subject:      Rear Brake Job, Observations.

Item Subject: Text_1 Hi All,

I just completed the brake job on my '85 Westy this weekend. I have done many brake jobs on American, Japanese, Italian, and German cars. This was me first VW. The brake job took 8 hours (next one will only take about 4--see observations below). I have some observations that may help others who are doing this job.

Ob. 1) VW really meant you to pull the hub when doing this job. The upper return springs are virtually inaccessible with the hub in place. Solution: After trying for an hour to get at these springs ( I like to use finesse not brute force when working on mechanical systems) , I decided to try removing the wheel cylinders since I had to replace them anyway (they leaked). I discovered you can easily use the adjuster bar to spread the shoes apart, unbolt the wheel cylinder and (after breaking it free with a light tap with a soft blow hammer) rotate it 45 degrees and remove the wheel cylinder. After that you can back the adjuster bar back down and get at the springs with ease. Reverse the procedure to reassemble the brakes.

Ob 2) Bleeding the brakes is not as straight forward as other jobs I have done. At first the bleeding went as expected, lots of bubbles then clear fluid. However, the brakes still had a few bubbles in them after about ten bleeds on each wheel (I use the old fashioned two person method because, as others have posted, the one man check valve bleeding systems are susceptible to ingesting air into the system if the nipple is out too far and air leaks in past the threads). Solution: I'm not sure exactly what out of the following sequence did the trick but here's what I did. I let the car sit a night because it was getting cold outside. The next day I did a few bleeds on each side--still air trapped some where. Since the breaks were mostly firm, I try just one pump on the break pedal instead of the standard three. I do this about four bleeds per side--still some small amount of air is present. I then go back to the standard three pumps for the heck of it. In the next two bleeds on each side lots of tiny bubbles come out of both sides. I check the brakes and wala--a firm pedal. I ended up using almost two of the small (I think 1 pint) cans of DOT4 fluid.

I hope this helps others. Sorry for being so long winded about a somewhat mundane subject.

Vince. '85 GL Westy (next up--repack the CV Joints, Replace rusted exhaust) '90 Mit. Eclipse GSX


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