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Date:         Fri, 7 Mar 1997 01:47:03 -0600 (CST)
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Austin <austins@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:      RE:'87 High/wandering Idle-a solution???

At 11:51 AM 3/6/97 -0600, you wrote: >Whoa! > >Strange happenings! I have been experiencing the exact same problem with >my 88 Westy for a couple of weeks. I was about to post the same question >to the list server. I have also noticed that with somewhat warmer >outside temps (in the 50's) the ide will drop to 1500 after warmup. But >now that the temperatures are back in the 30's and below I have the >exact same problem.:-( > >>---------- >>From: Chris Pittack[SMTP:chrisp@mosaix.com] >>Sent: Thursday, March 06, 1997 11:30 AM >>To: Multiple recipients of list >>Subject: '87 GL High Idle >>> >>1. Dead cold morning start: starts and idles fine until as long as you >>don't touch accelerator pedal. >> >>2. As soon as you start driving the rpms will only drop to 2,000 between >>shifts. If you are driving above 2,000 rpms and take you foot of the >>accelerator it will only also only drop to 2,000. >> >>4. After warming up (normal op temp), rpms still don't drop below 2,000 >>between shifts. However I can now "force" 900 rpm idle by letting out >>the clutch a tad, the rpm drops, I push the clutch back in or put in >>neutral and it will hold 900 rpms.

(in gear? - DON'T do this-you're just 'dragging' the clutch!!!)

>> >>5. And finally, just to throw a wrench into this. Sometimes, maybe 10% >>of the time, Lewis will idle but never do the rpms drop below 2,000 >>during shifting. >> >>What the heck is going on here? >> >>Thanks in advance. >> >> >>Chris P. Seattle, WA >>'89 Oil Burning Jetta "Jake" >>'87 Wasserboxer GL "Lewis" >>'82 Oil Burning L "Billie Rae" >>

STABILIZING DIGIFANT IDLE:

OK folks-y'all aren't gonna believe this, but (I believe) I've discovered something never before covered on this list, or in any manual for that matter (& please correct me if I'm wrong, or if what I'm about to relate is totally off base). This relates in particular to my '87 2wd Digifant, & I only assume to other similar setups, VW or otherwise.

First, make sure everything else has been checked/corrected (timing, O2 sensor, coolant temp. sensor, good/working/not 'lazy' thermostat, operating throttle switch, mixture setting, especially make sure the Air Bypass Valve is clean and free (see recent posts, esp -dan alias Rocko FlameFart on 2/3/97) etc, etc, etc.;

2nd, the engine is at normal operating temperature;

3rd step: with the engine idling - any speed - pull the electrical connector from the Air Bypass Valve (silver cylinder ~ big as your thumb, sitting top center of the engine); your idle should go up/down to 750 rpm; if not, adjust the idle adjust screw on the throttle valve (where the throttle cable attaches).

4th step, reconnect the electrical connector to the ABV & note what happens - usually the idle will surge up to 1500+, then slowly come down to about 1000 rpm (on occasion it will either not change at all, or actually lower the idle to 500 rpm or lower-engine dies, etc - just note what happened when you reconnected the connector.

5> shut off engine, disconnect the ABV connector again.

NOW IT GETS TRICKY-go slow; drop the following part & you'll be sorry.....

Between the 2 electrical prongs of the ABV itself is a barely visible silver colored set screw; note that it sits ~ flush with the 'floor' of the socket. It is a cover screw that seals the good part we're going to get at after it's removed. Use a 2mm hex wrench to remove it-NOT a ball type hex wrench, as the set screw may roll off the ball end just as it clears the hole, & *will* bounce to that place where you lost all the things in your life that you have to wait for death to ever find again-fondly remembered SO's, pocket knives, good lighters, etc. (ie-use a rag underneath + a magnet nearby just in case...)

OK, you got it out safely; now take a 2.5mm (yes, larger than the cover screw) hex wrench, insert it carefully into the hole - ~1/2 inch - & snuggle it into the invisible hex screw you *will* feel inside; memorize the position of the short right angle of the hex wrench sticking out.DON'T TURN IT YET-resist the false God of 'I gotta see what happens'...

Per step 4 above; if the idle jumped way high & only came down to 1000+, then turn the 2.5mm hex 1/8 turn clockwise (viewed as if looking directly into the hole) NO MORE THAN 1/8 TURN!!!! If by (rare) chance the idle actually lowered or was unaffected in step 4, then turn the hex wrench 1/8 turn (no mo') counter-clockwise.

Re-install the the tiny cover/set screw (down to flush), reinstall the connector, put the two hex wrenches in a baggy & go for a ride. You'll get amazingly proficient(sp?) at hopping out, doing a quick adjustment, & go roaring off.

When you get it right, the idle will edge up when it's supposed to-AC turned on, power steering at full lock, or at initial start a surge to ~1200 rpm settling to 800 in a few seconds.

But most of all remember that tiny adjustments make big differences in how the idle behaves - it's one of those situations where if you get too far out in left field while you're puttzing around you probably won't get back close to where you started. Remember, this is a $200+ part at the dealer!!!

And my disclaimers are first a heart-felt apology if this info is such common knowledge that everyone else *but* me knows about it, & second - again - remember that tiny adjustments make big differences in idle behavior; as I got mine close to where I wanted it, I was making barely perceptable adjustments that were making very noticeable changes to the idle.

Austin

(by the by, don't forget to re-solder all the cold solder joints & other places where things have been over heated from bad solder joints in both the ECU box under the bench seat and the idle stabilizer control box behind the passenger side tail light; I was amazed at how many there were in both of mine, & how much better the ol' bus ran after doing this <I used silver solder>).


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