Date:         22 May 97 07:56:24 PDT
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         CARVER_JEFFREY@aphub.aerojetpd.com (Jeff Carver)
Subject:      Re: Exhausting Problem

Lon -
I just recently replaced the right headon my air-cooled '80 Vanagon.  
I now have a California version exhaust, which includes a O2 sensor, 
so most other aircooled Vanagons should be the same.  I replaced the 
head with the engine in place.  Here are some tricks and such.  Some 
may not apply to an exhaust only replacement, but here they are.

Removing the upper sheet metal BEFORE removing the exahust components 
helped the removal of the exhaust stuff considerably.  With the rear 
right tin removed, the upper bolt on the RR header can be accessed 
with ease.

> Looking for some advice. Pulled the 81 Vanagon Westie out of hibernation;
> exahust system attachment points at right side heater exchangers (the three
> of them) are as follows: 1) top bolt - nearly impossible to turn (clearance
> problemns - any suggestions?)

This joint has studs mounted in the crossover pipe at the rear.  The 
studs then go through the exhaust manifold (with heater boxes).  The 
upper stud then goes through a bracket hanging down from the fan 
shrouding, tehn a nut.  Removing the bracket is optional, but doable.

With the upper tin in place, I used an appropriate 6 point socket (12 
points may round the nut), then a universal joint socket adapter, 
then a short extension shaft to the wrench.  A non-ratchet type may 
work better, I think I used one as it has a smaller diameter at the 
head.  As always, soak in a appropriate fluid such as Kroil, Liquid 
Wrench, but not WD-40.

Worst comes to worst, remove the alternator, belt, plastic crossover 
pipe, bellows, oil filler tube, to get to the lower tin, and remove that to 
get to the upper bolt. PITA, but it'll get you there. Unfortunately not 
enough room to get Vicegrips on it to shear it off.  If you do this, 
keep a close eye on a piece of metal hanging below this tin, directly 
above the muffler.  It is usually corroded and barely held on.  The 
left side bolts for the tin and this piece are the same, and if you 
didn't observe it carefully, re-assembly may be difficult. 

> 2) bottom left (facing rear of van) the head
> of the bold is sheared off (no, I didn't do it...honest) 3) bottom right-
> bolt is missing.

After you get all this removed and the cross over pipe is accessible, 
you can get vicegrips on the remnants, or if it shears (like one of 
mine) drill it out and re-tap the flange, install a new stud.

I managed to keep most of the remainder of the exhaust system intact.  
The only other joint I had to open up was the one at the end of the pipes 
coming straight off the head, with the large triangular shape.

I make it a practice to re-thread all accessible studs and tap all 
accessible threaded holes whenever doing exhaust components to assure 
things will go together easily.  I use an Anti-sieze on assembly 
also.  The copper nuts really work great, get ones that have the 
smushed ID and built in washers.  Usually 12mm heads, rather than 13, 
so need to remember next time removing.
 
> What I'd like to do is pull the whole darned exhaust off, clean up the
> flanges, put new gaskets on (I'd need these - any suggestions?) put new
> bolts on and button it back up again, after removing whats left of the
> bolt(s?) and rethreading the holes in the exhaust.

Good plan.  Keep things loose until all things are attached, then 
tighten up everything.  Loosening brackets may be necessary for 
re-assembly.  Loosening the brackets for the adapter at the exit for the 
heated air to the bus may be necessary to get a good connection (no 
fumes).

- Jeff '80 Westi