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Date:         09 May 97 06:22:59 PDT
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         CARVER_JEFFREY@aphub.aerojetpd.com (Jeff Carver)
Subject:      Head Welded, '80 (long) & Shop Recommendation

Well, it's time to detail a definite "DON'T DO THIS", the repairs done to correct the self induced problem, and a shop recommendation (AVP).

Aways back I had oil leaking from some push rod tubes. OK, easy enough, just pull 'em, replace the o-rings and end of problem.

During the installation I managed to NOT check that all of the push rods were seated into the recess in the rocker arm.

When the engine was started, the cam did it's thing, and pushed on the push rod, the push rod tried to do it's thing and push, but the end managed to get under the rocker arm and thus transfer the movement directly down, into the head.

I now had a pair of cracks. Imagine a triangle about 1 inch on a side. One side is the area between the two aft pushrod tube bores, and the other two sides are the cracks. About 1/4 inch of aluminum remained un-cracked, at the base of the triangle.

Being desperate, broke, and disgusted, I reached for the carbide cutter and the drillmotor. Ground out the crack, sprayed the crack as clean as possible with carb cleaner, and applied a liberal portion of JB Weld potion.

Ran without a leak, for about two days. For the next few months I drove this way, spewing toxic clouds of burnt oil into the air as it hit the hot parts underneath.

TAKE THE TIME TO CHECK YOUR WORK, is the moral here.

Finally had had enough, and pulled the head off the 'other' '80 in my yard. Turned out to be an original VW head. Took it to a shop for a quick cleanup and check over for use temporarily. $50 later I had a servicable head.

Did the Frankenstein thing and replaced heads.

Took the cracked head to AVP, here in Sacramento. I expected to drop by, leave the head, and go home to retrieve later, as this shop is about 1/2 hour out of my way. Not to be. I got lucky. Leonard happened to be doing welding that day, so "come back in an hour and a half, it'll be done". Had a couple of ways to go on this. Completely dismantle head, weld, remachine the valve cover surface, and re-machine the push rod tube bores, about $150 (new head $175). Or just weld up the area and hand work it. I chose the latter for a whole $50. The old query, what would you do if this was yours, Leonard, was the one to ask.

Returned later to find a welded head, ready to go. Leonard did a great welding job. Job turned out tougher that expected. During the removal of the JB Weld, the triangular piece fell out. Leonard welded it back, gouged it out and welded both sides, and hand finished it to fit the push rod tubes and valve cover. Been running it a week now with no leaks.

In one of my former jobs I held a AWS QC1 certification, as an American Welding Society Certified Welding Inspector. I couldn't have asked for a better weld. Excellent job Leonard. If you need to get ahold for Leonard at AVP for welding of heads, welding T4 cases, engine or head rebuilds, etc, see their web site at: http://www.sacbiz.com/avp/

He went through what they do to assure that the Type 4 valve seats won't drop. I like their approach and solution to the common problem. I'd like specific details on what other vendors do to provent seats from dropping, anyone?, specifically what does Mark Stephens do?

Impressed with AVP, or could you tell. BTW he didn't know of my connection to this list until AFTER the work was done, so no special favors were given, just a good business to work with.

- Jeff '80 Westi


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