Date:         Wed, 09 Jul 1997 11:42:01 -0700
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Tim Smith <smitht@unb.ca>
Subject:      insulating a vanagon

Hi,

I've done this on every van since '71, Canadian winters get cold.

Use oil/wet type fluid DO NOT use Zeibart or any tar based.  get
something that stays 'active' and seeps.  you'll see it at the outside
of the body seams after a day or two if you got the right stuff.  Up
here I use 'RustCheck', widely avail. at FLAPS.  Crown is another
similar type, both thin 'clear' fluids like sewing machine oil.  Spray
tins are $8Cdn/14 oz, takes 2~3.  Or franchise will blast entire vehicle
for about $135, EVERY part of it, well worth it BTW.  Do under the front
floor mats too.

steps:

- clean/wipe out every cavity to get the dust off.
- use a good rust preventative spray, and soak the thing well ( you'll
never be back again, so do it thoroughly)  Spray UP into window
frames!!!

- get one ~80sq.ft. bundle of the 4"+/- thick fibreglass house
insulation in 16" width, standard size

- get heavy 8-10-12mil polyethylene film

- get thin double sided tape (3M etc.)  not the cushioned stuff 2~3
rolls

- cut/fit/tuck/whatever insulation into every cavity so that there are
NO gaps and it stays self supported.  Fill it but don't pack the
insulation tight.

- put tape around each trim panel area such that is is hidden when panel
is fixed back, then cut poly roughly and (with help) press the poly
flat/tight onto the tape. 

- press the trim panels back in, then carefully trim excess poly.

done.

This is required to ensure longterm rust proofing, and especially to
keep out condensation of water vapour.  If you leave out the poly you
sign a death warrant for rustout, so really try to seal it up.  My
Syncro is done in walls, sliding door and hatch.  Roof is impossible
(Westy) to do, so is regular cloth roof unless you pull the headliner. 
Then you can use aluminized bubble wrap that is for insulating airducts
and hot water heaters up here. Attach 2+ layers with spray glue once you
have ripped/scraped off the factory padding.  Not worth the effort
really!

You'll get some extra condensation, air/fan flow through in vanagons
will get rid of this.  But the boost in heat will clear this up fast.  I
had a '85 panel FULLY insulated (4" fg in ceiling!), boiling hot in -30F
winters without rear heater on.  Windows are the weakest link once body
is done.  Insul. curtains? Thermopanes? My '87 Syncro is ample warm at
-30F, just takes a bit longer to get that way  and needs the rear heater
on.  Noise drops, and 'solider' feel to sliding door when you shut it.

I would stay well away from spray on foam type insulation.  Guaranteed
to trap water, and you can't rustproof body before installing it.  Any
future body work requires removing it and/or watching it burn. 
Styrofoam board is hard to work with, squeaks with body flex.

I am assuming your (vans) body cavities are all intact/watertight now?!  
Otherwise winter road slush will eat it steadily and wet the insulation.

Worthy endeavour, have fun.  While it's apart like that think about
speaker wires, additional inside lights/power sockets etc. Now's the
time

Tim